Gorillas in Uganda - Aunt Anna and the Silverback

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Guest writer: Anna Nilsson Spets

G day for gorillas arrived, excited with anticipation, we are briefed at the reception centre and divided into small groups. There are rules to go through, all for the good of the gorillas. 

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Our group is 6 people plus armed forest guards whose main task is to protect us from possible elephants. We are also accompanied by some porters, carriers, it was worth the money to have one of them to help with difficult passages.  

Bwindi NP is 331 km2 in size and borders Virunga NP in the Democratic Republic of Congo. Today, around 300 mountain gorillas live here. 

Walking and walking, up and down, slipping in the mud and getting stuck in the thorn bushes and it's filthy wet hot and I'm about to give up several times... Really. 

The trackers announce via comradio which way to go, an hour goes by, another hour. I'm exhausted. 

So finally, a group of mountain gorillas have taken a siesta in the green. The mighty silverback keeps watch, we keep our distance and are devoutly silent. 

A little baby monkey swings in the vines, some year-old relatives tumble around. Our gorilla group has 11 members. 

A rush of happiness ... finally a dream come true ... 

Sitting on the ground, constantly photographing, a couple of this year's baby gorillas curiously come very close, I don't move a muscle, hardly even dare to breathe.

The return walk was easy but I was exhausted ... Memories to add to my life book. 

On the way to civilisation, we stop at a project run by the Batwa tribe. The Batwa are a pygmy population that has always lived off and in the forest in south-west Uganda. An indigenous people who have unfortunately been displaced from their territories and today cannot live their nomadic existence as gatherers and hunters. 

The project we visited showed how they live, hunt, ceremonies and much more. The visit was beyond my expectations. 

Entebbe again... The large botanical garden shows a fantastic side, the cannonball trees are in bloom and it was here that Johnny Weismuller swung in the vines in the first Tarzan film. 

Doing the city by bike and also by mountain bike was an experience, at least for the bum. 

We had hired a local Turkish guy who took us on a half-day tour. After half an hour, however, there was a punk break. 

Of course, a customary visit to a market that minutes later would be drenched in rain. The banana market was in full swing, local root vegetables on a piece of cloth, an old woman spraying peas, just like a market in Africa. Colours, sounds and smells. 

Hojar on to the reptile park. There were many interesting amphibians, snakes and more. Knowledgeable staff but perhaps a little worn area, a stop to rest the butt from the MTB. 

 Note to self, mountain biking is not for you. 

Via via guesthouse is a great place to end this trip, good food and nice atmosphere. 

Bye bye Uganda, I might see you again. 

Seeing gorillas in Uganda - practical info

• Tour guide: There are extremely many companies that do tours, chose a local one which was much cheaper and the money goes to someone that needs it. Jackson is a role model of a young driven entrepreneur, takes care of you one hundred per cent. Website: Fly to Uganda Bwindi Mountain Gorilla Trekking Tours 
• Accommodation in Entebbe: Gorilla guesthouse, clean and simple accommodation, breakfast. Via guesthouse, cool cosy place with good food. 
• Authorisation: Permits to visit the gorillas are made well in advance, $600 ($750 in Rwanda). Chimpanzee permits cost €150 and are organised through the tour agency. 
• Equipment: No, you don't have to wear a special jungle outfit (as some people seem to think), but we were advised to wear quiet natural colours. Long sleeves, long legs and good boots. Fitness ... preferably. However, the groups are divided according to your ability. 
• Security: Good, no problem, usual street smarts in Entebbe. 
• Vaccine: Follow travel advice from vaccination centre, malaria prophylaxis, avoid swimming in stagnant water due to bilharziar risk. 

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Anna Nilsson Spets

60+ year old lady with a lifelong love for Africa. Emigrated to Flanders in Belgium and works with plants on a daily basis. Writes, takes photos and tries to inspire others to budget travel on their own. Blogs on "Anna's mix" about travelling, work, plants, writing and much more.

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