How we lived in Monaco and the French Riviera for 3 months for £0

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Writer: Helena Lemetti and Hedda Ståhl

We want to share with you one of our best life hacks. A way to create value in your life without always going through money - while living according to our slow-travel philosophy. Like last autumn, when we stayed in a beautiful Italian apartment in the middle of Monaco - completely free of charge - and had three unforgettable months together with cavapoon Scruffles. 

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A new way to discover the world: A win-win

It was Sofia, the youngest in the family, who first came up with the idea: "What if we could live in other people's homes, take care of their animals and discover new places at the same time?" Animals have always been her passion - and now also her field of study and part-time job. And so our adventure began with house sitting.

Today, seven years later, we receive enquiries from all over the world and choose what fits into our year of life design. It's a clear example of how to create a win-win between people. Travellers know that their homes and animals are in good hands - and we get a meaningful experience in return.

When Monaco appeared in the inbox

Last summer the question came: Did we want to live three months in Monaco? After a few online conversations with the nice Australian couple living there, we knew: this will be our autumn.

In fact, it had been over 25 years since Helena had last been to Monaco - and then only for a short wedding visit. Like many others, we probably had preconceptions. Luxury, space, fast cars. But those would soon change.

Warm attic and Italian shutters 

We travelled smoothly from Gothenburg to Nice by plane, then on by free tram and then train to Monaco. As soon as we got off the train, we were inspired by the beautiful station with its cosy wooden panelling. On this particular evening, someone magically played the public piano that is free to use in the station - it felt like a scene from a feel-good film.

We stepped out onto Boulevard Princess Charlotte and fell in love at first sight with the energy of the still evening and the warm breeze. The stately Italian villa where our beautiful apartment was located, with its typical green shutters, was completely to our taste.

It was a clear contrast to the modern high-rise buildings that are otherwise common in Monaco - here old and new are mixed in a harmonious way. From our door, we had only a ten-minute walk to the casino and an equally short walk to the sea. We felt at home straight away - and we were soon to love it.

From coin tricks to tax havens

History nerds that we are, we couldn't resist delving into Monaco's fascinating past - right back to ancient Greece. In the 14th century, the Grimaldi family conquered the castle through a clever ruse: Francesco disguised himself as a monk to gain entry through the gate, and the family has ruled Monaco ever since.

In the mid-19th century, the country was in crisis and Charles III was in dire need of income. When the idea of a casino was mooted, it was quickly approved, and new train lines to Paris were laid - success was assured. Monte Carlo, 'Charles' Mountain', was born - one of the four neighbourhoods of Monaco. The casino began to finance the country, and Monegasques became tax-exempt. Today, however, the casino accounts for only around 5 per cent of Monaco's income.

Secret passages and friendly people 

The Monegasques are really helpful and friendly. Many speak English - Monaco is a bilingual country where French dominates, but there is also a lot of Italian spoken, which made us feel a bit 'at home'. Of course, Monaco is also an international melting pot. Just house sitting means that you quickly get into a context of contacts and community, and having a dog means that you are almost automatically considered a local.

Because Monaco is built into the mountains, accessibility has been cleverly solved - with lifts, escalators and long walkways linking different parts of the city. This is where the difference between tourists and those who really know Monaco comes into play - the Monegasques know exactly how to find those tricky, hidden paths that make everyday life easier. And now we did too.

We enjoyed our long walks across the small country - and the ease of day trips to both Nice and Italy, just 30 minutes away by train for five euros along a stunningly beautiful stretch of coastline.

Monaco - a place with many layers

It turned out that Monaco has many faces. Sure, around the casino there are beautiful parks, legendary hotels, luxury cars and branded shops like Dior, Rolex and Hermes, but walking past there every day gives you perspective. Although we appreciated the wonderful scene. Nice to have a cappuccino at Cafe de Paris and people watch or try drinking tea at the fabled Hotel Hermitage, we quickly realised that the real Monaco was found elsewhere.

More authentically, for example, we were invited to a classic English tea party at the home of 85-year-old Rose, a vivacious 85-year-old widow and former air hostess who has lived in Monaco since the 1970s. She had stories to tell and a keen eye for our times. A real lady. 

Off season, the soul is visible

Since we were there during the "off season" in autumn, it was just right with people - and it felt luxurious. During the high season it can otherwise get very crowded. It was at this time of year that we felt the soul of Monaco came out. The ordinary Monegasques were now visible - their sense of enjoying life and creativity in creating events for each other made the place come alive. The word bon vivant fits perfectly here.

Party in red and white 

Like true Monegasques, we dressed in red and white - the colours of the flag - for the National Day celebrations. The whole city was decorated from head to toe for several days. It was a delightful mix of stately horse parades, tuxedos and hats, and a lively folk festival with fried fish as the main dish at the charming Condamine market, full of stalls, aromas and restaurants.

One hill up is Beausoleil

Go to France, or as we did - take the lift up from Boulevard Princess Charlotte to Beausoleil, a French commune. Here you'll find picturesque streets, cosy restaurants and Italian and Portuguese cafés where you can enjoy a coffee with a crispy pastry for only €3.50. For us, it quickly became a favourite.

On Fridays there is a market where you can buy fresh vegetables, flowers and clothes. Scruffles loved to stay at the café after our walks. If you want to rent accommodation, for example via Airbnb, at reasonable prices, then that is also a great option here. You get the feeling of being in Monaco, but at the same time you have access to the French side.

Metropole, markets and supermarkets

Sure, it was nice to eat out, but we loved cooking at home, and that's one of the advantages of house sitting - you have access to a complete and well-equipped home. Monaco offers a wide range of dining options. For a luxury experience, visit the Metropole Shopping Centre, where they often offer tastings.

But the best part is the markets. If you want to make an excursion, take the train to Ventimiglia in Italy, just 30 minutes away, to experience their fantastic market. Generally, food prices are no more expensive than in Sweden, and you can find everything you need at U Marche or Carrefour, both with their own low-price brands. We found it was great for basics, giving us the opportunity to treat ourselves to what really matters most.

Beacher, Yacht club and sun deck 

The wonderful thing about Monaco, apart from the mild climate, is the great outdoors and all the sporting activities that surround you. We never tired of walking by Port Hercules and past the Yacht Club, where there was always something going on - sailing training or rowing competitions.

Walking through the Champions promenade park (famous for having the feet of eminent people embedded in the ground) with its interesting sculptures, then finishing at our favourite café at Larvotto Beach, was one of our best experiences. There we felt at home with the friendly staff and could take a dip.

Another fun activity was to take the little boat across the harbour (for just 1.5 euros) and walk back up to Monaco-Ville, the old town where the castle is located. Once there, a staircase leads up to an outdoor gym and a fantastic sun deck with swimming ladders. Someone might be doing yoga, sunbathing or reading a book. And when you look down from the edge, you'll find magical little beaches.

All this is free and accessible to anyone. Afterwards, take a short cut by lift up to the famous Oceanographic Museum, and you're in the beautiful old town at the top of the cliff. There you can continue through the lovely Jardin Saint-Martin park and up to the castle.

An unexpectedly good place to work

One of the best surprises of the autumn was our workplace. Novotel, a more modern hotel around the corner from us, had a coworking concept and a lovely lounge with a library feel. There was free coffee and access to the pool, all for a surprisingly modest monthly fee. Perfect for important meetings!

We tested it for a whole month and then we ran some days there. Being able to work in a focused way, go for a swim and end up listening to jazz at after work was actually ... life design for real.

A metropolis and a small coastal town in one

The cultural scene is impressive for such a small place - opera, ballet, cinema, art exhibitions and many events going on. And in those days, it was geared to ordinary people's wallets, with some free activities. Everything is within walking distance, and for those who prefer it, there are bicycles everywhere for a few euros.

You'll feel the pace of the city in some places and at some times - there's a high pulse, quick steps and cars whizzing past. But in other places it's just as peaceful, and those contrasts were something we really appreciated. Sundays are quiet. In the morning there are few people, the smell of freshly baked croissants in the alleys and only a few luxury cars slowly gliding through the quiet streets.

Three people, three months, priceless

So how do you rate our three-month stay in Monaco? It is not really possible. Because value isn't just about money, it's also something personal. But one thing is certain: we - Helena 50+, Sofia 19 and Hedda 25 - all carry with us a deeply invaluable experience. Great days, new insights about ourselves and the opportunity to explore yet another culture in depth.

And the best part? We made new friends - both in Monaco and in Nice. And of course: wonderful Scruffles, the most charming little dog to discover life with.

We will be back!

Curious to know more?

Are you curious to hear us talk more about house sitting, slow travel and life design? Keep an eye out for our upcoming podcast episodes - They are for those who want to travel with their heart, whether for a week or a longer period. Perhaps, like us, you'll find that the world feels bigger when you move slowly.

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Helena and Hedda

Helena, GenX, and Hedda, Gen Z - mother and daughter - are life design coaches and social entrepreneurs. They have been writing about their own flexible life outside the box for almost a decade, with the world as their home and adventure. They are based in Spain and Italy. The family also includes their youngest daughter Sofia, 19, who can often be found on horseback. In their podcast "The 8760 Experience" they want to inspire people to design more authentic lives through engaging storytelling and concrete tools. Yes, a life you simply love to live. We all get 8760 new hours every year - that's your time to design.

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