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Armenia - a new destination for wine lovers

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Guest writer: Jonathan Gharbi de Maré

The wine country of Armenia is a real hidden gem, but tourism is on the rise and even Sweden has a few visitors. The country is beautiful and the people are friendly, there is no reason not to visit.

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Neighbouring Georgia is much more touristy and easy to travel by bus between the two countries. It takes around six hours and passes at an altitude of around 1500 metres among even higher mountain peaks. You can easily visit both, and it's thanks in part to Georgia that the region is getting more attention. However, the Nagorno-Karabakh region near Azerbaijan is sometimes unstable, so no one goes there anymore. 

Armenia is mountainous and beautiful with hot summers and cold winters.

Armenia is the size of Dalarna and three million people live in this small country. Of the four wine regions, the Vayots Dzor region is the best known outside Armenia. Some of the Armenian wines in the systembolaget come from there.

The king and queen of grapes are the blue Areni grape and the green Voskehat. Areni is also a town in the vicinity of the first archaeological findings of 6000-year-old wine remains. It is also where the Areni Wine Fest takes place. Another grape of interest to the region is Kangun which is found in both Georgia and Armenia and is the basis for brandy in Armenia but mostly for wines in Georgia. 

There used to be more vodka drinking, just like in the rest of the Soviet Union. But today, vodka has been replaced by wine and beer. Wine consumption has quadrupled since 2010. While local brandy still has its place in Armenia, it is more commonly consumed at home than in restaurants. The wine industry is thriving and is investing heavily, so there is a sense of enthusiasm and pride when talking about wine with Armenians. 

Rolling landscape along the road from Yerevan to Dilijan, Armenia's Switzerland
Armenia is a mix of modern and old, the Lada car brand lives on, a legacy of the Soviet Union.

Wine and coffee in Yerevan

Yerevan has a pleasant atmosphere and it is easy to get around on foot or by taxi for a few dollars. For those who like wine but also freshly roasted coffee, you should head straight to Saryan street, also known as wine street. This is also where the annual wine festival Yerevan Wine Days takes place.

Along the street, cosy wine bars and open-air cafes mingle with the smell of freshly roasted coffee. Armenians are also famous for their coffee. Coffee beans are not grown locally but imported and roasted daily in small quantities for optimal flavour. As with the wines, you can choose from a variety of coffees in most places. 

Freshly roasted coffee at one of the cafes along Saryan (Wine street).
One of the coffee roasteries along Saryan Street.

Hundreds of Armenian wines

To get a good grasp of Armenia's wine culture, you should visit one of the two best wine bars. Let's start with In Vino, located on Saryan Street, a wine street. In Vino is also part of the Trinity wine brand which has several wines available at Systembolaget.

In Vino is located in the centre of Saryan Street.

Originally it was three friends who decided to create something more than a social club and then started Trinity. They were one of the first in the wine industry and have very knowledgeable staff at In Vino so it's really nice to talk wine with them.  

There are wines from floor to ceiling. Around 250 Armenian wines out of a total of one thousand wines are available at In Vino. The focus is on wine and wine again. Some cold cuts and other goodies are served alongside the wines, ask for a plate of tapas made from local produce.

There are always a handful of wines by the glass, but if you buy a bottle, 400 kronor is enough for a really good wine. They organise wine tastings and know all about the wines of Armenia so if you ask a question, be prepared for a long and detailed answer. 

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In Vino, simple but pleasant decor on one of the few walls not covered with wines.
In Vino, wine from floor to ceiling. But they have a ladder that they move around unless you have very long arms.

Wine and French food

The huge staircase in Yerevan is the most touristy area, but it's also home to very good restaurants and especially the Wine Republic, which is one of the legends of Yerevan. They were part of the wave of wine that washed over Armenia after 2010. Their French cuisine attracts both French diplomats and many Armenians visiting from France.

Wine Republic has a nice outdoor terrace and has put a lot of effort into its cosy interior design.

Both fish and French brie cheeses are served, not the usual ones but the ones that the French themselves prefer. There are always 7-8 wines you can order by the glass. They have a vacuum cooler where open bottles are stored optimally. You can also buy any of their hundred Armenian wines or old world wines with a focus on France. If you want wine and food, this is the place to go. The restaurant is divided into two parts and they also have a family section with Asian food.

It's easy to get lost in the wines at Wine Republic while Vahan and Elina explain the names and origins of the wines.

There are countless wine bars but these two have been around since the beginning of the wave and have a vast knowledge and collection of Armenian wines. 

Wine and coffee are high quality, but the country also has a burgeoning beer culture and you must visit the Dargett Craft Beer brewpub while you're there. 

Armenia will soon undergo the same transition as Georgia and tourism is growing steadily, so for the curious and adventurous, it's a great destination.

Jonathan with Vahan and Elina at Wine Republic.

Read more here about beer in Armenia

Jonathan Gharbi de Maré

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Jonathan Gharbi De Maré

Jonathan runs the start-up abudhabibeer.com about beer both in the UAE with offshoots in neighbouring regions. Jonathan opened the first craft brewery in Burkina Faso and wrote the book Beer guide to Vietnam. He is a regular writer for the beer magazine Maltesen. In addition to beer, he has a keen interest in nature and more unusual travel destinations. He has written articles for a variety of newspapers and magazines.

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