Seglingen till vår vinterhamn på Sicilien

Writer: Anki Palerby Hjelmqwist

Our last longer sail of the season, between southern Sardinia and northern Sicily, was an unexpectedly fine experience - calm winds, gentle waves and no seasickness. We set off at dawn and sailed downwind for most of the day, before continuing under motor overnight.

During the evening we were joined by an exhausted little bird who recovered on board and even made a mate who felt the same and rested a little, before they both flew on.

Tired little bird resting on board with tired captain.

READ PART 1: From landlubber to longshoreman
READ PART 2: The start of the sailing adventure: the day of departure!

The crossing, which was 217 nautical miles (about 40 land miles) and took just over 34 hours, was devoted to reading, music and audio books. We took turns on watch during the night, the sea was so calm that it was possible to sleep in our real bed in the forepeak. The next morning brought a magical sunrise - and two dolphins appearing at the bow! Could there be a better start to a day?

In the evening we arrived in Marsala at sunset and celebrated with a good pasta dinner near the harbour. Marsala also offered rainy weather, but also a visit to a café with crazy good coffee bread and with fantastic good and friendly service. Our waiter served us a free selection of delicacies when he heard that we had just arrived in Sicily for the first time.

The following day, an important online meeting with my publisher was held from a temporary 'office' in the harbour, consisting of a small plastic party tent sheltered from the rain, as the launch of the boat cookbook approached.

Then we continued south towards Sciacca, with varied motoring and motor sailing. An evening walk with many steps up from the harbour ended at a cosy bar. However, the engine was acting up, and we were unsure if we could sail on. But thanks to the internet and helpful people, we got quick support from a Swedish mechanic in Marsala via Facebook - a real angel!

With that loose, we headed for the next harbour - Licata - where we were welcomed by our sailing friends Rosa and Fredrik with bubbly and snacks. The next morning we sailed on in sunshine and light headwinds. After another 35 miles we finally arrived at our winter harbour in Marina di Ragusa in southern Sicily, where we had a place booked all winter.

Before we chugged into the harbour, we saw a large whale ridge brush past the boat - our first whale in the Mediterranean! It felt like a powerful and welcoming omen. Once we arrived at our permanent berth in the marina, we moored the Frog and stepped ashore, after seven hours of motoring in the sunshine.

The first few days in port were spent getting to know the village, our new home, and our immediate boat neighbours - Dutch, British, French and Belgians. We walked along the sea, found food shops, ate the best pizza ever and got lots of food from a boat neighbour who was going home. The ingredients led to our first pasta with both salmon and swordfish - a fantastic success!

Happy, we soon discovered the best ice cream parlour in the village (open all winter!), unpacked our folding bikes, scrubbed the decks, rested, read and cooked good food. Despite a freshwater leak on board, some engine trouble and a broken plotter (digital charts), we felt no stress - we had all the time in the world to fix them!

The harbour of Marina di Ragusa - our new "home"!

Along one of the promenades in our village

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Anki Palerby Hjelmqwist

Anki is a freelance writer, author and digital life coach who loves travelling. She has lived in various countries, such as Lebanon, Poland, Egypt and Morocco, and later in life became a full-time long-distance sailor (despite her recurring seasickness!), after meeting her husband Janne. With their boat Lazy Frog, they have sailed from Sweden down the Atlantic coast, across to the Canary Islands and Madeira, and are currently in the Mediterranean, in Sicily. Join her on her adventures, both on land and at sea!