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Rothenburg – Germany's coziest medieval town

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Text and photo: Jonathan Gharbi de Maré

If you like castles, palaces and medieval towns, you should travel along the Burgenstrasse (Castle Road) in southern Germany. There are over 60 castles to visit here, spread across a number of locations. One of the most famous medieval towns is Rothenburg, which has a vibrant medieval culture that blooms several times a year. 

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Burgenstrasse is divided into smaller routes

The whole Burgenstrasse is divided into five smaller sections and there are plenty of brochures, maps and suggestions for accommodation and restaurants along the route. The road passes through lots of small beautiful villages and towns in medieval style with half-timbered houses.

They are either in their original condition, but many have also been carefully restored to preserve the medieval style. Several castles along the route were built as early as the 11th century, but even among these there are those that are in their original condition and those that have been rebuilt in stages over the centuries. 

The medieval town of Rothenburg

The correct and long name is Rothenburg ob der Tauber, as the Tauber River flows past outside the city center. The city is beautifully surrounded by a solid wall with lots of towers. The tallest tower is from the late 9th century and several of the others were built over the next two hundred years.

One of Rothenburg's entrances

The wall itself is around three and a half kilometers long and you can walk around the city on top of the walls. Once where soldiers tramped around during the Thirty Years' War.

The wall around Rothenburg.

The inner part of the town, where about 3,000 inhabitants live, consists mostly of half-timbered houses in the Baroque style. Although the town burned down a few hundred years ago and was also bombed during World War II, the style has been preserved, which has also contributed to Rothenburg being Germany's most fascinating medieval town.

Many cozy streets in Rothenburg with the cathedral in the background
Around 3,000 people live today in the cozy town that has preserved its style since the Middle Ages.

Pentecost Medieval Festival in Rothenburg

There are several medieval-themed festivals in Rothenburg, the locals love their parties so there are a few throughout the year. The one I visited is called Pentecost and was between May 22-25, the festival has been organized every year since 1881 to commemorate the year 1631 and the Thirty Years' War. It lasted from 1618 to 1648 and was mainly a war between Catholics and Protestants. 

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Pentecost medieval festival in Rothenburg.
The Pentecost festival lasts for four days.
View of the fenced area where everything must be medieval.

The Swedish garrison outside Rothenburg

There was also a Swedish camp at the festival with soldiers wearing blue uniforms. They were part of the Swedish garrison that was outside Rothenburg in 1631.

Gustav II Adolf and his armies fought on the side of the Protestants in the Thirty Years' War. So the Swedish soldiers play an important role during the games, but not only in Rothenburg but also in many other cities, Sweden played an important role four hundred years ago. 

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With contemporary clothes

Several hundred of the city's residents dress up in period clothing and then walk around in it from morning to night. There is a large fenced-in area where only the city's costumed residents are allowed to stay and they live as contemporary as possible with food and drink from that time, meat and beer or wine diluted with water.

There are lots of exhibitions, dancing and music during the festivals in Rothenburg.

There is also a bigger festival in September and other events all year round. What is surprising is that the city doesn't attract many foreign tourists so it's mostly Germans who are there. But many come from other cities and just enjoy walking around in medieval clothes in a medieval city. A bit like the medieval week on Gotland. Rothenburg is part of beer-loving Bavaria which is great to see, beer is drunk everywhere from early morning until late at night. 

Slow-cooked meat, beer and wine are what are served to thirsty soldiers.
Passersby can drink beer with those inside the medieval area.
Pentecost and the other festivals bring together many dressed-up Germans.

Christmas shop, museum and Jewish history in Rothenburg

What really surprised us in the summer heat was the enormous Christmas shop in Rothenburg. Käthe Wohlfart is a German chain focused on Christmas products, but the store in Rothenburg has a large exhibition and museum. Among other things, a 5.7-meter-high Christmas tree and several others fit into the nooks and crannies of the store, which is teeming with Christmas decorations. 

A 5.7 m tall fir tree is inside the store and small houses with Christmas decorations.
The store has a historical museum about Christmas decorations and there is lots to see.

The city also has a Jewish history and several neighborhoods where Jews lived during the Middle Ages. There are guided tours, both in German and English, so you can learn more about the city's historical heritage.  

There is a museum where you can see how the city was destroyed during World War II. Many people also visit the medieval crime museum where you can learn more about how prisoners were treated during the Middle Ages, not so cheerfully of course. 

Rothenburg museum was once a convent where nuns cooked food for the poor.

St. James' Church is very large in relation to the city's surface area but bears witness to how rich and important the city was. It took four hundred years to build it but only takes fifteen minutes to walk around and look around, so it is a must in Rothenburg. 

Parts of the medieval Jewish Quarter.

Festivals and events in Rothenburg

On August 6-8, the Taubertal Music Festival is celebrated, which celebrates its 30th anniversary this year. The following week, August 12-16, there is a wine festival and the region's winemakers gather in Rothenburg. The Rothenburg Imperial City Festival is one of the largest festivals and is a historical medieval celebration, September 4-9. On each occasion, around 900 of the city's residents usually participate in period clothing, so it is truly a folk festival. 

After traveling around for a week along Burgenstrasse, my personal favorite is Rothenburg, not only for the medieval style but also for the nice atmosphere in town.

During the festival, the soldiers play music in front of the pub at 9:30 in the morning and are then rewarded with beer.
Jonathan Gharbi de Maré

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Jonathan Gharbi De Maré

Jonathan has lived abroad for about 10 years but now lives in Stockholm and runs jbwtravels.com with a focus on craft beer and wine and there you will find a collection of all his publications. Jonathan opened the first craft brewery in Burkina Faso and wrote the book Beer guide to Vietnam. He is a reporter for the beer promotion magazine Maltesen. Besides beer, he has a keen interest in nature and unusual travel destinations.
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