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Burg Guttenberg and Burg Hornberg – two castles along Germany's castle route

Text and photo: Jonathan Gharbi de Maré

We continue traveling along Burgenstrasse, the castle road in Germany, and visit two more castles, which are also located on each side of a beautiful valley. 

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You may have been in the medieval town of Rothenburg or are on your way there, then you can visit one or both of these castles. They are located around an hour and a half from Rothenburg and offer a range of activities, they are also related. 

Birds of prey display at Burg Guttenberg

Burg Guttenberg is a smaller but very well-maintained castle that offers an extraordinary bird show. You will feel the wings of eagles, vultures and cute owls flying a few centimeters above your head. If you happen to be a Gothenburger, you could say that you can actually feel the wings of history at Burg Guttenberg. 

The castle has a large number of birds of prey that are displayed twice a day and it is a special feeling to be so close to the large birds of prey. Two falconers stand on either side of the audience and lure the birds to each other with small pieces of meat and you can feel the wings brushing your head as they fly over.

There are many birds of prey at Burg Guttenberg
Flying giant owl

A cute little owl one moment and then a huge eagle or vulture calmly flapping above your head. It is strictly forbidden to carry food in your bag or sit with a sandwich, the birds of prey have an incredible ability to detect food. 

Then there are hiking trails and bike paths nearby, information is available at the castle restaurant or information desk. It is well visited and many people go there to eat food with a nice view or watch the birds of prey. There is also a museum with objects from the castle's history, including a collection of books with seeds and shoots from the 18th century. 

View from Burg Guttenberg

Meeting with a Baron at Burg Guttenberg

Burg Guttenberg's Baron von Gemmingen meets us to tell us more about how the castle came into the family's possession. He lives in the castle with his family, just like his ancestors who have lived there since 1518.

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Baron von Gemmingen at Burg Guttenberg.

The castle was built around 1180 and has never been destroyed, even though many castles and palaces in the area were destroyed during the many wars that took place during the Middle Ages. The normal thing was to conquer the castle you wanted, but the Gemmingen family was very rich so they were able to buy it. Baron von Gemmingen emphasizes that the family was rich before they bought the castle, but then all the money disappeared with the purchase.

Even today, it is extremely expensive to keep a castle in good condition, so the various activities around the castle are important for its preservation. Baron von Gemmingen grew up at the castle and has many anecdotes to tell, but also talks about what it is like to have a castle. 

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Burg Guttenberg is open most of the time

For those of you who have seen castles and palaces for sale for under two million in Germany, it can be revealed that guidelines and rules for preserving ancient monuments are very extensive in Germany. Even if you buy a castle for a million or two, there will be at least ten million in costs for restoration and maintenance. More about this but above all about the history can be read in a book about Guttenberg's castle that was published only four years ago, but it requires you to know German. 

Inside the tower of Burg Guttenberg

Burg Hornberg with fantastic views

You can drive here from Burg Guttenberg in fifteen minutes, walking across the beautiful valley and past the small villages takes a little over an hour. But Burg Hornberg towers nicely against the sky and is located quite a distance up a mountain.

Burg Hornberg has not been restored so parts of it are ruins
The location of the castle above the river was of great strategic importance.

In the beautiful deciduous forests around the castle there are lots of hiking trails covered by the tall trees, so even on a hot day you can cool off in the shelter of the forest. 

Hiking in the forest outside Hornberg

At Burg Hornberg there is also a nice hotel and an associated restaurant that maintains a very high standard. The menu consists of classic German dishes served in a modern version as well as slightly more innovative dishes. For around 300 kronor you get a good main course with local ingredients, the drinks are however slightly cheaper than in Sweden. Once in Germany you of course drink the local wines and preferably the region's own wines are of course on the wine list. 

Cozy hotel rooms in medieval houses.
Dinner on Burg Hornberg's terrace

Beautiful sunset

The sun also sets on the other side of the valley, so you get a perfect sunset from the restaurant's terrace. After visiting a large number of castles and palaces, the terrace at Burg Guttenberg comes out on top. You can also see Burg Guttenberg, on the other side of the valley where the Neckar River flows past. Then, as today, it was widely used for transport and large boats pass along the river while you sit and enjoy your dinner up on the castle terrace. 

Magical sunset at Burg Hornberg
View of the valley from Burg Hornberg. On the other side of the valley is Burg Guttenberg

History of Burg Hornberg 

It is no coincidence that the two castles, Burg Hornberg and Burg Guttenberg, are located close to each other, as they are owned by the same family. Reinhard of Gemmingen bought the castle in 1612 and it has been in the family ever since. 

Gotz von Berlichingen

The first known owner was the knight Götz von Berlichingen, also known as Hötz of the Iron Hand. An iron hand that you can now see during breakfast in the hotel restaurant. He was not only a knight but also a poet but became best known for his warlike nature and his constant involvement in various feuds and wars. He lived in Burg Hornberg from 1517 until his death in 1562 but in the meantime managed to give rise to both a play and a quote. 

The German philosopher Goethe performed a play in the 18th century called Götz von Berlichingen. But perhaps the most memorable detail is the quote he inspired. 

During a siege he was urged to surrender but is said to have coined the phrase now widely used He can lick my ass. Whether that concept originates from this particular place and time may be difficult to know, but it is in any case one of many interesting legends from the castle and its owners. 

Inside the restaurant at Burg Hornberg is this steel hand that once belonged to the castle lord.
Jonathan Gharbi de Maré

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Jonathan Gharbi De Maré

Jonathan has lived abroad for about 10 years but now lives in Stockholm and runs jbwtravels.com with a focus on craft beer and wine and there you will find a collection of all his publications. Jonathan opened the first craft brewery in Burkina Faso and wrote the book Beer guide to Vietnam. He is a reporter for the beer promotion magazine Maltesen. Besides beer, he has a keen interest in nature and unusual travel destinations.
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