Writer: Helena Bergström
Updated: September 2026 | Île de Ré outside La Rochelle is a classic French holiday island with long sandy beaches, whitewashed houses, small ports, salt marshes and cycle paths. We arrived here in the middle of winter, when the boats were idle and the beaches were almost deserted. But it wasn't too hard to imagine how the island changes when summer arrives.
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The Island of Ré outside La Rochelle
Île de Ré is located in the Atlantic Ocean off La Rochelle on the west coast of France. Since 1988, the island has been connected to the mainland by a bridge almost three kilometers long. As soon as you cross the bridge, the landscape changes. Here you will find long beaches, low white houses, small villages, harbors, vineyards and salt marshes.
Île de Ré is sometimes called Ré la Blanche, the white island, after the characteristic whitewashed houses.
We came here in the winter and of course it was far from the high season. The boats were idle, the beaches were empty and many activities were waiting for another season. But we still liked the island.
Things to do on Île de Ré – 8 tips
Here you will find our best tips for things to see and do on Île de Ré.
1. Discover Saint-Martin-de-Ré
Saint-Martin-de-Ré is the island's historic capital and a must-see stop during a visit to Île de Ré. Here you can stroll among white houses and narrow alleys and settle down by the small harbor, which is lined with restaurants and cafés.
It's the kind of place we could easily imagine filled with boats, outdoor cafes, and people during the summer. When we were here, it was winter calm instead.
2. See Vauban's fortifications
Saint-Martin-de-Ré is surrounded by impressive fortifications designed by the famous French military engineer Vauban during the reign of Louis XIV. The fortifications were built to protect the island from attacks from the sea and were designed so that the entire population of the island could seek refuge within the walls.
Since 2008, the fortifications of Saint-Martin-de-Ré have been included in the UNESCO World Heritage List. Fortifications of Vauban, along with eleven other fortified sites in France.
3. Cycle around Île de Ré
If we were to return to Île de Ré during the warmer part of the year, the bikes would definitely come with us. The island is almost completely flat and around 138 kilometers of cycle paths run through the landscape. You can cycle between the villages, along the sea and through areas of vineyards, forests and salt marshes. It is also possible to rent bikes at many places on the island.
4. Enjoy the beaches
Île de Ré is a real holiday island and there are plenty of sandy beaches along the coast. When we visited the island, they hardly attracted anyone to swim. Instead, we had the beaches almost to ourselves and were able to walk along the sea.
In the summer, of course, it's a completely different story. Then the island is filled with holidaymakers who come here for sun, swimming and life by the Atlantic.
5. Discover the island's small villages and ports
Saint-Martin-de-Ré is far from the only place to discover. Île de Ré is made up of ten villages, several of which have small ports, markets and typical white houses.
La Flotte is one of the most famous, with its harbour and old alleys, while Ars-en-Ré further west is known for its characteristic church with a black and white spire. A large part of the charm of Île de Ré seems to simply be moving slowly between the villages, preferably by bike, and stopping when something looks nice.
6. See the salt flats
Salt has been mined on Île de Ré for centuries and the salt flats are still an important part of the island's landscape and identity. Especially in the western part of the island, the basins spread out between the villages. Salt producers still work here, sauniers, with harvesting sea salt.
There are cycle paths through the area, making it possible to combine the salt flats with a trip through the flat countryside.
7. Eat oysters and other seafood delicacies
After our visit to oyster town Cancale in Brittany we already understood that the French Atlantic coast is the right place for those who like seafood. Île de Ré also has a strong oyster tradition. The island has oyster producers where you can buy or taste oysters, and fish and shellfish are a natural part of the restaurants' offerings.
For us, the dining experience was much more modest this time. We were here in the middle of winter and many restaurants were closed for the season. It simply has to be a reason to return.
8. Make your way all the way out to the island
If you have time, it is worth continuing west through the entire Île de Ré. Here the landscape changes with salt marshes, nature and beaches. At the far end of the island is the lighthouse, among other things Whale Lighthouse, one of Île de Ré's most famous landmarks.
We didn't have time to discover all of this during our own visit, but for those staying a few days there is significantly more of the island to see than the area closest to the bridge and Saint-Martin-de-Ré.
Île de Ré by motorhome
We arrived at Île de Ré by camper van and stopped at a spot near the bridge. It was winter, the parking space cost significantly less than today's prices, and the electricity turned out to be out.
It created some irritation right then and there. We were short on gas and had primarily chosen the location to be able to plug the camper into electricity.
A lot has changed since then and our old prices and information about the camping site are no longer relevant. Anyone traveling here with a campervan should therefore check the current locations and rules before traveling.
However, the bridge itself is still a cost to consider. Motor vehicles pay a toll when they drive to the island, while the return trip is included. The fee varies depending on the season and vehicle type.
Getting to Ile de Ré
The easiest way to get to the island by car or camper is across the bridge from La Rochelle.
However, you don't need a car to visit Île de Ré. There are buses from La Rochelle and during parts of the year there are also other public transport options. You can also cycle or walk across the bridge, and then the crossing itself costs nothing.
When is the best time to visit Ile de Ré?
Summer is the big holiday season, with beach life, restaurants and significantly more activity. At the same time, the high season also means more visitors and more traffic.
Our own winter visit was a completely different experience. The island was calm, the beaches almost empty and we had plenty of space to walk and look around.
We would love to return in the spring or early fall sometime. Then we would bring the bikes and discover much more of the island.
Is Ile de Ré worth a visit?
Yes, and we really only got a taste. We came here at the wrong time of year for the classic Île de Ré holiday, but maybe that's also why we were able to see the island in a different way. The empty beaches, the quiet boats and the white houses made it easy to imagine how different everything must feel a few months later.
Our old report from Île de Ré was pretty much about bridge tolls, parking fees and an electricity pole that didn't deliver any electricity. We remember that too. But the island actually deserves a better legacy than that. Next time we'll take the bikes.
See more in France
Want to continue your trip in France? Here are more places you might want to discover, not too far from Île de Ré:
You might also like:
Visiting Gouffre de Padirac in France - a fascinating cave
Visiting the Dune du Pilat in France - Europe's largest sand dune
Visiting the Gorges du Tarn in France - a scenic canyon
Visiting the Ardèche in France - canoeing at the Pont d'Arc
The Esterel Mountains in France - a spectacular drive along the Corniche d'Or
Visiting Colmar - a picturesque dream in France
English (UK) 
Svenska
Bosse och Gerd says:
After 2 days of rubbish weather (rain and wind), as of today we have sunshine and mostly blue skies. The weather forecasts for the next 7 days indicate bright sunshine = shorts and T-shirt !
The Algarve coast in Portugal should also have good weather.
16 December 2014 - 20:58
BP says:
Such expenses are very annoying. In addition, it is much more common on the continent to charge "tolls" for both.
According to the BBC's weather forecast, the weather is not great in either Spain or Portugal. Madrid 9 degrees, Costa Blanca a measly 14. Portugal 9-12 degrees. But if you turn round and go to London, it's 14 degrees. What strange weather...
16 December 2014 - 21:18
Steve says:
The contrasts you'll encounter on your journey are vivid.
16 December 2014 - 21:30
admin says:
Bosse and Gerd, that sounds promising! We keep our fingers crossed for that.
🙂
BP, the fees become extra annoying when you feel that you could have avoided them... if you had better control. Those weather forecasts don't sound entirely brilliant, but then of course it depends on whether it's rain or sun...?
Steve, absolutely, and we are still in the same country...
😉
16 December 2014 - 21:54
Ditte says:
Oh, I have been here both in my youth and in my old age. But only in summer. Very nice!
These extra expenses are a shame. You can't rely on a GPS if you are driving a car, it wants you to take toll motorways.
We left Spain, Costa Blanca, this morning and have now had a couple of days of rain. But next week looks good. Before that we have had sun for 14 days and about +18 during the day in Torrevieja. The nights are cooler. But we have sat outside and had lunch most days.
Hopefully you'll be warmer and can avoid extra expenses.
16 December 2014 - 22:08
Katarina Wohlfart says:
Brr. But nice pictures. 🙂 Lovely to follow all these beautiful photos.
16 December 2014 - 22:12
Znogge says:
Such costs are annoying but unfortunately not uncommon in some countries. You just have to accept the situation or take a lot of detours on small roads...
16 December 2014 - 22:50
Deciree says:
Not easy to live frugally when you are travelling. But of course you want the money to last a long time...:-)
16 December 2014 - 22:24
Lena & Jan says:
Right now, at bedtime the outside temperature shows 17°, there are Moroccan winds to look forward to tomorrow 😀.
16 December 2014 - 23:52
Lars Permelin says:
There is probably a lot of wind and rainwater coming in overland at this time of year, right there in the Bay of Biscay.
16 December 2014 - 23:58
Marie says:
In Almunecar the weather seems to be 19 degrees and sunny, so slightly warmer than France I guess. Triiist with unnecessary expenses....
17 December 2014 - 0:11
Lena & Jan says:
On Costa Almeria in the bay of Roquetas de Mar we also have winter! This morning we had sun and 18 ° beautiful, also windless! We sat outside in the small kitchen tent and ate dinner as well as coffee 😉.
16 December 2014 - 23:44
marina says:
It almost sounds like you'll have to take the same route on the way back and see your summer paradise in the right weather.
17 December 2014 - 8:13
admin says:
Ditte, 18 degrees sounds like nice heat! We're starting to look forward to a milder climate now, so we'll head south.
Katarina, thank you! Glad you like the pictures!
🙂
Deciree, there are always costs involved. And sometimes you feel like you have to pay extra for making the wrong decision...
Znogge, that's right! Yesterday, however, we think we could have chosen a different route, which was not so much longer...
Lena & Jan, 18 degrees sounds much more comfortable than here. Time to roll southwards!
Lars, it's not surprising that it's getting a bit chilly...
Marie, time to roll south...!
Marina, don't know if we feel like it... But I think this place is super nice in the summer!
17 December 2014 - 9:32
Åsa says:
Here in the Lisbon area we have around 15 degrees and a few weeks ahead we will apparently have sunshine. Around New Year it seems that it will be cloudier unfortunately!
/ Åsa
17 December 2014 - 10:11
Ama de casa says:
Ile de Ré is really beautiful! But I've only been there in the summer...
According to a reliable source, it's pretty chilly here in Spain too. Only twelve degrees right now. But the sun is shining as much as it can and it will surely be lovely in the afternoon.
🙂
17 December 2014 - 11:55
solveig rhann says:
Camping in Tavira Portugal. The sun is shining, this time of year the weather and wind can change a lot. Tavira poliscamping costs 9.90 €, then we get 16 ampere. Google Tavira, a nice old town that does not live on tourism...
17 December 2014 - 12:05
admin says:
Åsa, 15 degrees sounds milder than here! We are gradually heading towards Portugal!
Ama de casa, seems to be a bit chilly all over Europe... but we're still looking forward to a few degrees warmer!
Solveig, thank you so much for the tips! It sounds interesting! We will check it out! Is there wifi?
17 December 2014 - 13:47
Veiken says:
Gah, these fees are such a drain on holiday funds. Too bad you got caught! You can play monkey outside the motorhome and then walk around with the hat or take admission! 😉
It looks nice where you are/were!
17 December 2014 - 21:58
solveig rhann says:
Solan Rhann from Tavira here. Yes, good wifi, but you have to rush down to the laundry room. There are tables and some French people too. Feel at home!
18 December 2014 - 13:31
admin says:
Veiken, haha, thanks for the creative tips for raising money... we'll come back to it if there's a crisis....
😉
Solveig, hello again! Sounds great! It is very possible that we will find there! It takes a little time, however, because we have a bit left and some other things to do along the way... But please keep an eye on the blog, if you are still there, it would be fun to see you when we come!
🙂
18 December 2014 - 17:31
Matts Torebring says:
The bridge costs a fortune to cross, at least in summer. I want to remember that we paid over 40€ to cross. The campsite was then very expensive and without hot water.
20 December 2014 - 21:18
admin says:
Matts, oh is that true? Very expensive in that case!
21 December 2014 - 10:53
Rebecca says:
What a great description of the Ile de Ré! It is unfortunately as you write very expensive so it is difficult to live a budget life there. The price of the bridge toll is more expensive in the summer, 16 Euro in the summer, against 8 Euro in the winter with vehicles under 3.5 tonnes, saw that someone had written a comment about this. 40 Euro is the fee if you drive over with a heavy truck with a trailer. We have many relatives on the island and unfortunately it is expensive even if you live there, unless you can prove that you live permanently all year round, but it is definitely worth a visit! I would also like to recommend the slightly smaller town of Ars en Ré.
30 April 2018 - 6:19