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Trollstigen – one of Norway's most dramatic roads

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Text and photo: Helena Bergström

Trollstigen is one of Norway's most iconic tourist routes - a winding mountain road with eleven hairpin bends, dramatic cliffs and waterfalls cascading down the mountainside. During our motorhome trip in Norway, it was an obvious destination, and we were not disappointed.

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Trollstigen in Norway

We came to Trollstigen from the Åndalsnes side and drove the road from the bottom up, in the direction of Valldal. This was a truly adventurous and fascinating experience, we promise.

Trollstigen i Norge

Facts about the Trollstigen

  • Location: Located in More og Romsdal
  • Tourist route: Part of the national tourist route Geiranger–Trollstigen.
  • Number of curves: 11 hairpin bends
  • Inclination: Maximum slope around 10 %
  • Opening hours: Normally opens in late May or June depending on snow conditions. Usually closes in the fall as winter approaches
  • For which vehicles: Suitable for cars, campers and buses – but requires calm driving
  • Popularity: Has been one of Norway's most visited tourist routes since its inauguration in 1936

Our path towards Trollstigen

The night before, we spent the night at Bjorli Rastplats together with Peter's youngest son Billie and his girlfriend Amy, who met us by car from Sweden. The rest stop is beautifully situated next to a roaring rapid and was a perfect starting point for the next day's adventure.

Rastplats med vattenfall

An unexpected stop

We started by scouting out a nice little swimming spot, which we found between Bjorli Rastplats and Trollveggen.

Sjö med grönt vatten

We found it by observing a place where many cars were parked along the road and then we followed the path into the forest. We were not disappointed when we arrived and experienced the clear, green-shimmering water.

The Troll Wall

We then continued our journey, through a landscape that was spectacular long before we reached the main destination for the day.

Bergig väg i Norge

Before reaching Trollstigen, we also stopped at Trollväggen (Norwegian: Trollveggen), which is Europe's highest vertical rock face. From the valley floor to the highest peaks, the height difference is about 1,700 meters, while the closest vertical rock face rises about 1,000 meters. The wall has become popular with climbers who want to challenge themselves, and unfortunately, some have also lost their lives here.

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There is a visitor center here, with information signs, a cafe and toilets. We stopped briefly for an ice cream and a ”troll photo”.

Driving the Trollstigen – from the bottom up

We chose to drive the classic stretch of the Trollstigen, from below Åndalsnes and up towards the plateau. The first few curves felt almost surreal, before we cautiously began to take in the majestic landscape.

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Trollstigen i Norge

The road winds close to the mountainside while Stigfossen plunges thunderously down beside the road. After each curve new views open up. We took photos and photos, but it's hard to capture the feeling in a picture.

Although the road is narrow, we found it to be well-ordered. It's important to take it easy, keep your distance, and be prepared for oncoming traffic – especially large vehicles like campers and long tour buses taking turns.

It's hard not to stop time and time again. Every curve feels like a new postcard, and it's almost a little hard to believe that this spectacle is real.

The viewing platforms at the top

Once you reach the top, it's time for new experiences. There is a large parking lot here, and services in the form of toilets, a café and a souvenir shop. From the parking lot, you can walk to several nice viewing platforms. The visitor center and viewing platforms are designed to blend into the landscape and have been awarded for their modern architecture.

In fact, it is from here that you get the finest views and the very best photos. The outermost viewpoints are breathtaking and gave me (who suffers from a fear of heights) a large dose of vertigo, but there are also benches further back where you can enjoy this natural painting in peace and quiet.

Trollstigen i Norge

The road ahead towards Valldal

Once you have made it up Trollstigen, you can continue on the road over the mountain, in the direction of Valldal. The mountain experience started right at the visitor center, in the form of a large herd of sheep strolling around the parking lot.

The mountain plateau offers incredibly beautiful views. Along the way we saw several small gravel parking lots where campers were parked with expansive mountain views around them. If you want to spend the night here, there is certainly a possibility, although of course you have to check the current signage and show consideration for nature and traffic. However, it may be good to be prepared that the Internet coverage is weak here, which is why we chose to continue on.

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Gudbrandsjuvet

We stopped at Gudbrandsjuvet – a five-meter narrow and 20-25-meter high ravine, where the Valldøla rapids rush forward. The water levels are impressive and the views are truly stunning.

Gudbrandsjuvet

Overnight stay at a campsite

We primarily alternate free camping with overnight stays at Norwegian farms via the Nortrip concept, but it also happens that we go camping – especially when there are four of us in the camper. This night we went to Skoglund Camping, which is a relatively small and simple, but scenic and pleasant campsite. Here we could relax in peace and quiet after the day's intense adventure.

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Our tips for the visit

  • Run early or late if you want to avoid the biggest tourist crowds.
  • Set aside several hours – not just the time it takes to drive.
  • Bring a warm sweater or windproof jacket, even in the middle of summer.
  • Stop at the viewing platforms – that's where Trollstigen really comes into its own.
  • Drive safely if you have a motorhome.. The path is entirely possible but requires concentration.

More experiences in this part of Norway

Of course, there is much more to see and experience around Norway. Here you will find more tips and reports on places nearby:

Frequently asked questions about Trollstigen (FAQ)

When is the Trollstigen open?

Trollstigen is a winter-closed road that is normally open during the summer and into the fall. Exact dates vary from year to year depending on snow, weather, avalanche risk and road conditions. Therefore, always check the latest traffic information with the Swedish Public Roads Administration before visiting.

Can you drive the Trollstigen with a camper?

Yes, it is allowed and common to drive the Trollstigen with a motorhome, but the road is narrow, steep and has eleven sharp hairpin bends. Drive slowly, keep your distance and be prepared that large oncoming vehicles may need extra space. When driving downhill, it is important to use a low gear and engine brake to reduce the load on the brakes.

How long does it take to drive Trollstigen?

The actual drive through the hairpin bends can be relatively quick when traffic is flowing, but during peak season there can be queues and slow encounters. Please allow at least 1.5–3 hours for the entire visit, including parking, the walk to the viewing platforms, taking photos and possibly a coffee break.

Is Trollstigen scary to drive?

Trollstigen looks very dramatic in the picture, but we found the road to be well-ordered and exciting in only a positive way. At the same time, it is steep, narrow and busy, so it may feel challenging for those who are afraid of heights or are not used to mountain roads. Drive slowly and stop in a safe place if you need a break.

Is there parking at the top?

Yes, there is parking at the top. The parking lot is relatively large and during high season there are staff to direct the cars.

Is there a cafe and toilets?

Yes, there is a café and toilets at the viewing platform at the top.

Can you go out to the observation deck for free?

Yes, it is completely free to go out to the observation platform.

Which direction is best to drive?

You can choose to drive the Trollstigen from the bottom up or from the top down. Many motorhome drivers choose to drive up to avoid worrying about overheating the brakes. However, the view can be dizzying for those who choose to drive from the top down.

What can you combine the Trollstigen with on the same day?

You can combine the Trollstigen with driving along the entire national tourist route to Geiranger and, for example, making a stop at Gudbrandsjuvet in Valldal.

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