Himokilan, or Himoquitan as it is sometimes spelled, is one of four Philippine islands known collectively as the 'Cuatro Islas'. Here you can, among other things, hike through the forest to a cave with bats. We were also lucky enough to be invited to a local birthday party.
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Himokilan Island in the Philippines
The island of Himokilan is a nice little island, where the inhabitants live everyday life with fishing, boat building, crafts and schooling. Before the pandemic there was also some tourism, at least in the form of Filipino tourists, but when we arrived we were told that we were the first tourists to visit the cave after the pandemic.
The island of Himokilan is located just west of the large island of Leyte, close to the other three islands of the Cuatro Islas.
By boat to Himokilan
During our boat trip with the Philippine boat Dotche, we have visited all four islands of the Cuatro Islas archipelago. This morning we started on the island of Mahaba, and made a short boat trip before arriving at our next destination.
Himokilan - an island of everyday Filipino life
We started our visit to Himokilan by walking to the "barangay", which is the smallest administrative unit in the Philippines, where we asked for permission to stay overnight and paid a small fee. We then walked around the island, which offered everyday life including a school, construction and lots of roosters.
Hike to a cave
We had read that there was a cave on the island and asked around for a guide. Of course, on an island this small, everyone knows everyone and it wasn't long before we had a guide ready with a machete and flashlight. We (all except the captain, as one person always stays on the boat) went hiking.
After only a short distance, the tour went straight into the dense forest and it was lucky that our guide had a machete, because sometimes he had to cut down some branches so that we could get through. He told us that we were the first cave visitors since the pandemic, so it was perhaps not so strange that the forest has grown over the paths in some places.
The machete also came in handy when it was time for some "snacks" on the road. The guide shared a coconut and we were offered both the hard crunchy part and the soft inner core.
Moreover, one of our crew members, Aldrin, showed us that you can also eat other parts of the coconut palm. A useful plant in other words!
Here and there along the way we also stopped to read various information signs, with information about animals and nature in the area.
Amongst other things, we looked at the "panda" - a plant that is drought-resistant, a bit sharp and used by the locals to make carpets and bags, amongst other things.
Cave with stalagtites, stalagmites and bats
After a short hike in dense terrain we arrived at the cave. There was a first large opening, and then a narrow passage, before you could enter some more large cave rooms. Everywhere you could see stalagtites and stalagmites, and if you went to the far end (which Peter and I did not do, as I thought it was a bit narrow) you could also see the bats.
Also on the way back from the cave, the guide fixed "snacks" directly from nature. This time we were offered a fruit called "eva". The fruit was a bit sour, but had a fresh and tasty flavour.
The tour ended by passing a statue of the Portuguese explorer Ferdinand Magellan, who died in battle on the island of Mactan in the Philippines in 1521.
Birthday party
When we got back to the village, it turned out that the guide's son turned 18 and there was a big party outside their house. Filipinos are incredibly hospitable and we were immediately invited. Tables and chairs were conjured up in no time and suddenly we were served a feast of pancit (a Filipino noodle dish), spaghetti, grilled fish, rice, sea cucumber, small pieces of stomach (unsure of which animal) and coconut wine mixed with coca cola.
Very nice and tasty, and for those who wonder, the stomach tasted better than expected. The sea cucumber is served in the Philippines in a good marinade, but we haven't really gotten used to the texture, which offers quite hard chewing resistance. What about the coconut wine? Well, it tasted just fine. As I said, that coconut palm is useful!
Nearby, the women in the family were working with the leaves of the 'panda' plant, which they use to make carpets, but also bags, wallets and other items. The picture shows Julia trying to cut the leaves.
Staying in tents - and meeting the island's children
For the night, we pitched our tents on the beach, which aroused the curiosity of the village children. As we set up our tent, a growing ring of children surrounded us - at most we were surrounded by maybe 25 curious faces.
At first the children didn't dare to say much, but after a while it turned out that they were very good at English, especially the oldest girl who was 14 years old. We told them about our trip and about Sweden, where there is snow.
They told us that they go to school on the island until they are 12 years old, and then go to school on the larger island of Leyte, where they have to stay for weeks at a time. They also told us that in addition to their own language (Visayas) and English, they also have to learn the larger Filipino language Tagalog, which they described as difficult. A very nice meeting with lovely children!
More to see and do in the neighbourhood
Close to Himokilan are the other three islands of the Cuatro Islas. On the Apid there is village and beach, on Digyo there is a beautiful beach, summer huts and sea turtle nesting sites, and on Mahaba there is a small beach and coconut crabs. It's also close to Leyte, and relatively close to the beautiful Camotes Islands and to Bohol.
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Facts about Himokilan Island in the Philippines
- Country: Philippines
- Region: Visaya Islands
- Municipality: Hindang
- Location: Just west of Leyte Island, north-east of Cebu City
- Nature conservation: The Cuatro Islas Protected Landscape & Seascape (CIPLS), overnight stays are subject to authorisation and a fee.
- Getting here: By boat, for example from Leyte.
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Some observations and reflections from the Philippines
English (UK) 
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Anna Nilsson Spets says:
The tasty fruit, Bilimbi or Koromandelkrusbär in Swedish belongs to the same family as star fruit/carambola. Pandan, Pandanus palm, difficult to see which species of all Pandanus, they also have an edible fruit, similar to a round pineapple. By the way, the islands look great
25 March 2023 - 8:46
Helena says:
Thank you for your comment! Bilimbi seems to be a more correct name in Swedish and English! "Eva" was probably the name in the local language... Interesting that even the panda has an edible fruit!!!
25 March 2023 - 9:00
Monica says:
Now you are on a real adventure! It's especially fun to read about the population - how they make a living and go about their daily lives. And how schooling is organised and the children's lives are. It is so completely different than we can imagine! I would never have entered a cave with bats or walked on a machete-chopped path, it takes a certain kind of soul to do that. But it's fun to see and read about! (What about snakes, scorpions and other poisonous things?) And how does healthcare work in such remote places?
25 March 2023 - 11:22
Helena says:
Yes, it is an adventure! Glad you like reading about the lives of the locals, we find it very interesting to learn more about!
As for snakes, the guide told us that there used to be a lot of pythons, but that the population likes to eat them so there are not so many left anymore. We do not like snakes, so it felt in a way a little reassuring 😉 Otherwise it feels quite calm, some beetles and spiders are seen of course, but nothing very scary.
In terms of healthcare, I think you need to go to bigger places to get good healthcare, like Cebu. On small islands like this, you probably can't expect much.
25 March 2023 - 13:49
BP says:
Best post so far from your trip. So you are in the middle of the jungle, but not. Information boards are the last thing I expected to see, not to mention the statue.
The sea cucumbers look as unappetising as oysters, but I would definitely try them. Good thing you didn't ask about the origin of the stomachs - hahaha.
Then I wonder - are there no ticks or similar? You go "lightly dressed" there in the heat so you should be mum for local mosquitoes, ticks and more.
The children reminded me of all the kids who gathered around us in Gambia in the 1980s. Most of them had never seen a white person before. However, they expected gifts of pencils, paper and footballs. Is this also the case in the Philippines?
25 March 2023 - 16:05
Helena says:
Glad you liked the post! 🙂 The information boards were a bit surprising actually, haha. Apparently they have had some tourism (mostly domestic, I think) going to the cave before, before the pandemic.
We haven't seen or heard of ticks here, but there are mosquitoes and also some kind of sand fleas. We have been bitten by both mosquitoes and sand fleas, but mostly on the beaches, not in the forest. There are also plenty of ants.
The children we have met (both here and elsewhere) have neither begged nor expected anything, as far as we have noticed. They usually just want to talk or play. In a way it is the same with adults. They are very nice and helpful, but no one (not where we have been anyway) is nagging or begging. If we ever give a little tip, they are pleasantly surprised.
25 March 2023 - 23:39
Deciree Granberg says:
You are really on an amazing journey. You look like you're having a great time too.
25 March 2023 - 16:11
Helena says:
Nice to hear from you! Yes, a wonderful trip! 🙂
26 March 2023 - 14:58
Lena i Wales och lite överallt says:
What nice places you visit and the food is always interesting.
How do local people view these colonial interventions?
Have a good time!
26 March 2023 - 14:35
Helena says:
What a good question! I don't know for sure, and I don't have the whole picture. However, I get the feeling that there is a relatively positive picture after all, which is perhaps partly linked to Christianity. Catholicism is important in the Philippines and I think some stories are about when Christianity came.
26 March 2023 - 15:03
I Monica says:
Just like BP, best post and that's what I thought when I read and then saw her comment.
So alive in some way and very interesting and exciting, would have loved to be there😀, I would also have liked to see the bats but snakes I thought of or dangerous insects when you walk in high grass but see you have explained.
And so much fun with the children, what you learn from other people and so nice with the party.
Hope you make or get a nice wallet or small bag, so nice memories then.
I'm also Monica but will call myself I Monica and am Monica in Stockholm. Of course, we have enough snow today and it will be over, I hate it now and was a bit energised by the nature with you.
Say hello to Peter and the other couple.
What a trip! And what great guides you have!
27 March 2023 - 22:16
Lena - gott för själen says:
I can imagine that you were really exotic to those kids. I'm glad you were able to exchange so much with them.
Hug Lena
28 March 2023 - 6:43