Sailing around Sicily – East Coast and Vulcano

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Writer: Anki Palerby Hjelmqwist

Part 1: About goodbyes, friendship, the sea - and the constant movement of life.

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Mid-April. It was those days before departure - full of laughter, fun and a touch of sadness. We had farewell dinners, bunkered the boat, and named “Pirate of the Year” in the harbour gang, after a paddle injury that has become somewhat legendary. When Janne's son joined us, we took one last trip ashore around our winter harbour in Marina di Ragusa in Sicily - Scicli, Modica, Punta Secca - and of course our favourite pizzeria in the square.

A departure with emotion

But when the day of departure came and the moorings had to be untied, the goodbyes were heavy. I couldn't even manage to walk around and say goodbye, the tears were already coming at the thought of all the people we had met and now call friends, and who would now remain on land for a while longer and soon sail on to new destinations - and (eventually) new winter harbours.

Leaving people I've only just met, but who already feel like old friends - that's one of the hardest things about sailing, second only to missing ”my people” back home.

On course for new destinations

A chocolate bar, a book and a bunch of hugs later, we set off. Sun, light winds and a glittering sea - the perfect start, with the goal of sailing the lap around Sicily anti-clockwise. Loved Sicily; our island and the largest in the Mediterranean. First stop was Marzamemi, a village as charming as its name suggests.

From there we sailed on to Syracuse and anchored in the large and well-protected bay inside Ortygia Island, where the old city centre is located. We took the dinghy into the city for a dinner in a cosily lit backyard with Italian 60's tunes on the speakers, and sailed the next day to Catania. The evening ended with tacos, film and laughter on board - and with a growing sense that life was on the threshold of something big.

A new little person - and a new kind of happiness

In the middle of the sailing days, I received the biggest news of all: I had become a grandmother! A little star, a new beginning. Everything suddenly felt both still and unreal - like the world took a deep breath and smiled. Life really does happen all the time - sometimes amidst waves, winds and salt spray - and I was infinitely grateful that everything had gone well after a crazy labour, which ended in an emergency caesarean section.

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Sea encounters and volcanic views

The sailing continued northwards: from Catania to the breathtakingly beautiful Taormina - the town perched high on a cliff with an indescribable mile-wide view of the sea. We sailed through the currents of the Strait of Messina and up to Milazzo. There we met the Häll sailing family on the boat Emma - A Swedish meeting at sea! We shared anchors, wine and laughter in the sunset.

The next day we set course together for the fabulously beautiful island of Vulcano. Black beaches, smoking mountains and a quiet feeling of being on another planet, especially as we were the only two boats in the bay.

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But after hitchhiking 255 metres in altitude and with an hour of constant uphill climbing towards the crater, my body gave up. I had to turn back, supported by Janne and with legs like spaghetti. Sometimes the will doesn't win - sometimes it's the body that decides - and that's okay. The afternoon ended with a visit to a restaurant and laughter with our newfound friends. The adventure continued, in a slightly calmer way.

A pause, a starting point - and the way home

Afterwards, we stayed at Vulcano to catch our breath. I dipped my feet in the warm, bubbling volcanic water and slipped around on the volcanic floor. The days were calm and easy - just what my body needed. Then I took the bus to Catania and flew home to Stockholm for a few intense, heart-warming days. Family, friends and the new little life that I now got to meet for the first time - and I felt a deep gratitude for everything life offers.

When I returned to Grodan, the sea was mirror-like, the sun was dancing in the water and Janne was waiting at the quayside.

Because that's what life is like - alternating between storms and calms, between goodbyes and reunions. And in the midst of it all: the gratitude of being part of the journey.

Final words

Sailing is never just a journey between or to places. It's a journey inwards - towards people, memories and moments that stay with you long after the sails have been set. And sometimes, in the middle of a new sea, you realise you're already home.

READ PART 2: Sailing around Sicily – Aeolian Islands and North Coast

READ MORE: What does it mean to have freedom of movement?

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Anki Palerby Hjelmqwist

Anki is a freelance writer, author and digital life coach who loves travelling. She has lived in various countries, such as Lebanon, Poland, Egypt and Morocco, and later in life became a full-time long-distance sailor (despite her recurring seasickness!), after meeting her husband Janne. With their boat Lazy Frog, they have sailed from Sweden down the Atlantic coast, across to the Canary Islands and Madeira, and are currently in the Mediterranean, in Sicily. Join her on her adventures, both on land and at sea!

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