Writer: Anki Palerby Hjelmqwist
The weeks that followed were just as wonderfully rich in content as you dream of when you leave - new places, new views and constantly new impressions. The sun was usually with us and the heat crept up, but out at sea the wind cooled down nicely, like a really nice summer day at home in Sweden.
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ShareREAD PART 1: Sailing around Sicily – the East Wind and Vulcano
READ PART 2: Sailing around Sicily – Aeolian Islands and North Coast
Table of contents
Morning dip ... and less seasickness
The captain faithfully started the days with a morning swim when we were at anchor, while the bathtub chose to wait a few more degrees. And to think - the seasickness that had once been my constant companion was now almost completely gone.
Outside Castellammare del Golfo we were met by weather that couldn't quite make up its mind - hot, windy, sunny and overcast all at the same time. We took the dinghy in, had ice-cream on the main street and finished with a drink at a jazz bar overlooking the “Frog” in the bay. The night got messier, with winds that tossed and turned and kept us awake.
San Vito Lo Capo - kites and a relaxed lunch
The sail on to San Vito lo Capo offered a leaning boat and a strong headwind, but the reward was worth every degree. The water was just as crystal clear as the rumour promised. A day on the beach among colourful kites, some exercise at the water's edge and a relaxed lunch stayed as a warm memory.
Trapani - with the son on a visit
In Trapani, we found a nice rhythm with long walks, sunsets and the buzz of bars and restaurants. And then, on Mother's Day, came the most wonderful surprise - my eldest son Zebastian turned up! The happiness was total.
A little misunderstanding at the fishmonger's on the street by the marina (”Three thick slices, please!”) gave us almost two kilos of fresh red tuna, resulting in tuna in all its forms for several days - we had a good laugh about it every time we served up another new variant.
One day we took the cable car up to the fabulously beautiful medieval village of Erice, to continue the next day to Favignana on the western tip of Sicily in perfect sailing winds, where the boat again picked up speed. The days were filled with beach life and simple pleasures, while the nights offered a real swing - the dinners on board became small acrobatic shows where nothing really wanted to lie still.
Back in Marsala - after a full lap around Sicily
When we returned to Marsala, it struck us that we had now actually sailed a full lap around Sicily, because it was here that we arrived from Sardinia the year before. A great feeling of both pride and gratitude came over us.
The city showed itself from its best side this time, and the spontaneous wine tasting became a memory in itself. Saying goodbye to Zebastian hurt in that quiet way - but my heart was now full of all the great memories we had shared.
Sailing to Mazara del Vallo
After that, life on board rolled on at its own pace - laundry, shopping, small chores and then out to sea again. The sail towards Mazara del Vallo went like clockwork in a nice wind, and suddenly summer was there for real.
A kitesurfer put on a spontaneous show just metres from the boat and we laughed at the unexpected moment. The stop after that was the charming village of Sciacca, which climbs the mountainside above the harbour.
Sailing to the home port of Marina di Ragusa
The sail continued along the coast with swimming stops in turquoise waters and warm days slipping into balmy evenings. During the last leg, we finally spotted dolphins in daylight - albeit from a distance - and that alone felt like a small gift.
When a stubborn engine alarm started beeping a few hours before we reached our home port of Marina di Ragusa, we chose to continue anyway. The generator had given up - but that was something to solve a little later. Thankfully, we had managed to sail around the entire island, the largest in the Mediterranean.
After about 50 days, we were back in our home harbour again. Tired, salty, sun-warmed - and with a full heart. And somewhere we already knew then: this was a trip we would love to do again - and again!
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