Sailing around Sicily – Aeolian Islands and North Coast

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Writer: Anki Parlerby Hjelmqwist

On the second leg of our journey around Sicily, we sailed among the fabulous volcanic islands to the north of the island - a place where time seemed to slow down and every day offered new wow moments. Over ten intense days, we experienced five of the seven Aeolian Islands, each with its own personality and charm.

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READ ERROR 1: Sailing around Sicily – East Coast and Vulcano

Quiet on the island of Lipari

From the island of Vulcano, we headed to a quiet anchorage on the island of Lipari, where mirror-like seas, solitary nude bathing and turquoise waters in small caves created an almost unreal sense of freedom. The days were filled with salty dips, simple adventures with the dinghy and unexpected encounters - like when a small fishing boat turned up with fresh catch just in time for dinner.

The car-free island of Panarea

From Lipari, the journey continued to the island of Panarea, a little gem where history was literally underfoot. Hilly walks among fragrant jasmine and other flowers and Bronze Age remains gave the place a magical aura. The car-free island, where golf carts and three-wheeled mopeds made their way along narrow paths, offered both tranquillity and spectacular views of the sea.

Towards Stromboli

A few days later, we left Panarea in the middle of the night to head for the active Stromboli volcano. In the moonlight and mild night heat, we were joined by playful dolphins, and in the distance the glow of the volcano could be seen - an unforgettable meeting between the forces of nature and the calm of the sea.

The tranquil island of Salina

After that adventure, the island of Salina awaited, green and lush, where the pace slowed down considerably. A quiet day at anchor, training on board and a glass of white wine at sunset was a perfect contrast to the previous intense experiences.

Back on the mainland: Cefalù

Back on the mainland, the journey continued to some of Sicily's probably most lovable towns. In Cefalù we fell completely in love with the small coastal town with its mighty cliff, golden beaches and impressive cathedral and on the beach in the centre of town we had a sundowner at sunset as we had just arrived. Days spent strolling through the alleys, having ice-cream breaks and long dinners gave the place an obvious place in our hearts.

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Big city pulse in Palermo

Our next stop was Palermo, where the pulse of the city met us. The bustle of the markets, the architecture, the Teatro Massimo opera house and the city's strong history created a fascinating mix. There are many impressive buildings here but most are both worn and dirty, and culture was mixed with dining experiences and spontaneous meetings with new friends, which gave the days both fascination and a feeling of having been thrown into a mafia film.

We visited the free-to-enter No Mafia museum, which contains many photos of the Mafia's deeds, and we went on an interesting guided tour of the incredible opera house. It was also exciting to see the fishermen delivering the day's tuna catch directly to the quayside, with tuna weighing around 400kg.  

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A spontaneous invitation to a neighbouring boat in the harbour gave us an outstandingly enjoyable end to our stay. Hardly anyone spoke English but joy, curiosity and wine can easily overcome such pettiness.

Still sailing ...

From Palermo we sailed on to a beautiful bay where we anchored at Cala Muletti, where a deserted pebble beach and climbing steep cliffs really emphasised all the contrasts of the sailing country. From volcanoes and historical ruins to city life, parties and quiet anchorages. Sicily and its islands had shown themselves from their very best side, leaving us with a strong desire for more, and we had not yet completed the lap around the entire island ...

READ PART 3: Sailing around Sicily – the west coast and the way back

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Anki Palerby Hjelmqwist

Anki is a freelance writer, author and digital life coach who loves travelling. She has lived in various countries, such as Lebanon, Poland, Egypt and Morocco, and later in life became a full-time long-distance sailor (despite her recurring seasickness!), after meeting her husband Janne. With their boat Lazy Frog, they have sailed from Sweden down the Atlantic coast, across to the Canary Islands and Madeira, and are currently in the Mediterranean, in Sicily. Join her on her adventures, both on land and at sea!

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