Sailing to Albania – turtles, mountain winds and an unexpected love affair

Text and photo: Anki Palerby Hjelmqwist

Albania part 1 of 2 | There are trips that are planned in detail. And then there are trips that develop into stories you could never have written in advance. Our first week in Albania turned out to be just such a story.

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Starting at the heel of Italy

It began at the bottom of Italy’s heel, in the charming seaside town of Santa Maria di Leuca, where the Mediterranean meets the Adriatic. Here, the white lighthouse, church and monastery rise high above the harbour, reached by 286 steps that reward the visitor with a view that makes postcards seem modest.

We strolled through the sun-warmed alleys, had lunch with the sea as a backdrop, and drank coffee in the classic Italian way. Because in Italy, espresso feels less like a drink and more like a social obligation.

Heading towards the unknown

The next day we left Italy behind. The crossing to Albania offered the kind of sailing that makes sailors smile to themselves. Five meters per second wind, soft swells and an unusually benevolent Mediterranean Sea.

The horizon was almost empty. Just a lone fishing boat, a few seabirds and a curious sea turtle looking up from the blue like a small living periscope.

When the engine suddenly started to sputter, the pulse on board immediately rose. Thoughts quickly wandered to costly repairs and ruined vacation budgets. But just as suddenly as the problem had arisen, it disappeared again when something stuck in the propeller came loose. The crisis was called off, at least for the time being.

When the mountains determine the weather

The closer we got to the Albanian coast, the more majestic the mountains rose from the sea. The plan was simple: sail into the shelter behind the mountain sides, take down the sails in peace and quiet, and continue towards the marina in Orikum.

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The mountains had other plans. From the slopes, katabatic winds rushed down towards the sea. Powerful downwinds that accelerated through the valleys and swept out over the water with surprising force. Even though we were in what on the chart looked like sheltered waters, the wind continued to howl.

Just before sunset we found a small cove where we could anchor. The sails came down. The pulse started to drop. Then the engine died. Right during anchoring. For a few seconds the scenario looked like it was going to be a much more dramatic evening than planned. But after a quick manual anchor release and a little luck, the engine started again.

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Later that night the sea lay mirror-like, as if nothing had happened. Perhaps that is why you never tire of life at sea.

Albania exceeds expectations

In Orikum we were met by several sailboats from our home port in Sicily. We had coffee, walks and wonderful sailing stories. One evening the whole gang took a walk to a restaurant where the fish was literally caught in the river next door after the guest placed their order. From water to plate in record time.

When dinner was over and laughter was still echoing between the tables, we were given a ride back to the marina on the flatbed of a pickup truck by the restaurant owner because, ”You can’t walk in the dark!” A transportation solution that felt equal parts rural romance and spontaneous adventure.

From monasteries to nuclear bunkers

To get to know the country better, we rented a car with our friends. The road trip through Albania was a fascinating journey through contrasts. First, we visited the Ardenica Monastery, founded in the 13th century.

Two monks still live here and hold services several times a day, all year round. The surroundings are characterized by tranquility, olive groves and the long breath of history.

Then medieval monastery walls were exchanged for Tirana's modern urban pulse and the fascinating Bunk'Art museum, a huge underground bunker built during the communist dictatorship.

Room by room tells the story of a country that lived in isolation behind closed borders for decades. After hours among tunnels, exhibitions and cold concrete walls, it felt almost surreal to step out into Tirana's bustling streets again.

Hospitality in Albanian style

What perhaps made the strongest impression on the trip were the people. In restaurants, cafes and hotels we were repeatedly greeted by an unmistakable warmth. Often a simple dinner ended with long conversations, local recommendations and a glass of raki that appeared on the table without anyone ordering it.

One evening in Tirana we enjoyed Albanian snacks, local wines and spontaneous singing with the staff at a small restaurant. When the bill arrived, we initially thought something had gone wrong. For six people, the whole feast cost barely more than a simple dinner for two in many Western European cities.

The city with a thousand windows

The absolute highlight of the trip on land was Berat, often called ”The City of a Thousand Windows.” The UNESCO-listed city climbs the slopes along the Osum River. Above it sits the old castle, where people still live within the walls.

Walking through the cobblestone streets is like walking through a living museum. The stone houses, churches, views and small cafes create an atmosphere that feels both genuine and timeless – and everywhere we were greeted with smiles. Even though we didn’t share a language, communication still worked.

South towards new adventures

After two intense days on the road, we returned to the coast. We dropped off the rental car, said goodbye to our friends, and set off again. The rain clouds hanging over the mountains slowly began to disperse as we headed south along the Albanian coast.

Ahead of us awaited Saranda and the Ionian Sea. And the feeling was clear: We had come to Albania with curiosity. We left the first week with something much bigger: A new favorite on the Mediterranean!

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Anki Palerby Hjelmqwist

Anki is a freelance writer, author and digital life coach who loves travelling. She has lived in various countries, such as Lebanon, Poland, Egypt and Morocco, and later in life became a full-time long-distance sailor (despite her recurring seasickness!), after meeting her husband Janne. With their boat Lazy Frog, they have sailed from Sweden down the Atlantic coast, across to the Canary Islands and Madeira, and are currently in the Mediterranean, in Sicily. Join her on her adventures, both on land and at sea!

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