Text and photo: Anki Palerby Hjelmqwist
Albania part 2 of 2 | After a few days on the Albanian coast, Saranda had begun to feel like home. The charming coastal town, beautifully situated opposite Corfu, became our base for new discoveries both at sea and on land.
Tweet
Share
Share
Pin
Share
SharePART 1: Sailing to Albania – turtles, mountain winds and an unexpected love affair
Table of contents
By rubber boat into town
On a sunny Monday morning, we took the dinghy into town for today's mission: to stock up on supplies and explore the surroundings. It was a walk to the market and along small streets where the scent of fresh fruit mixed with sea air and freshly baked bread.
We browsed among olives, local specialties and colorful fruit stands before settling down for a well-deserved lunch in the form of a delicious chicken roll each.
There's something special about traveling by sea. The days are filled with simple joys, where the big decisions might be about which olive variety to take on board, or whether another coffee is really necessary. The answer is almost always yes.
During the day, our Australian sailing friends also showed up and anchored near Grodan. The reunion was just as warm and happy as one hopes when friendships are forged through shared adventures in both marinas and at sea.
Catch of the day straight to the table
We spent the first evening together at the seafood restaurant Filipi, one of those places that food lovers dream of finding. Here, guests were allowed to choose their own dinner directly from the catch of the day before it was cooked. The result was one of the best meals of the trip.
The service was as warm as the food was delicious. The decor, however, offered a slightly different experience. The bright lighting gave the place an unexpected feeling of an operating room rather than a romantic seafood restaurant. But once the food arrived, all that was quickly forgotten.
A journey through the history of Albania
The next morning, we rented a car with our friends and headed inland. Our first stop was the UNESCO-listed city of Gjirokastër, often called the ”Stone City.” The steep cobblestone streets wind between traditional Ottoman houses and lead up to the mighty castle that watches over the city from its height.
The hike up the slopes was sweaty but well worth the effort. From the castle walls, 336 meters above sea level, the view opened up over the Drino Valley and the surrounding mountains.
The castle, whose history dates back to the 12th century, is one of Albania's most important cultural heritage sites. Here, history is palpable. The wind sweeps along the ancient walls and the view makes time slow down. It is a place that invites you to stop for a moment and just contemplate the landscape.
A fascinating natural phenomenon
After lunch, we continued south towards one of Albania's most talked-about natural wonders: the Blue Eye. A half-hour hike through lush forest led to the famous spring, and once it appeared, it was easy to understand why the place had become so talked-about.
The water shifted in intense turquoise and cobalt blue hues that almost looked unreal. In the middle of the spring opened the dark blue ”eye”, a deep water-filled abyss whose exact depth is still not fully mapped but which extends more than 50 meters down. Every second, about 18,400 liters of crystal-clear water flows up from the earth’s interior. It is a place that feels more like something out of a storybook than reality.
Wet adventures and an unexpected meeting
Back in Saranda we barely had time to change before it was time for the next excursion. The journey from the boat to shore in the rubber dinghy was an unusually wet one. The waves had decided to offer an extra shower, and when we stepped ashore at least I – who had been sitting in the bow – looked as if I had just finished a small swim.
After regaining our dignity over a delicious dinner at the popular Haxhi restaurant, the evening continued towards a place that several had recommended: Elvis Bar. The name naturally raised some expectations. And sure enough – there was Elvis! At least an Albanian version of him.
Unfortunately, it was the off-season and there was no concert. The king of rock'n'roll chose not to sing that evening – but he talked all the more about all his performances, which we thought was a bit diva-like. But the meeting was still one of those unexpected holiday moments that you remember long afterwards.
Farewell to Albania
After the days in Saranda it was time to set sail again. We weighed anchor, waved goodbye to Albania's dramatic coastline and headed west across the calm sea. Ahead of us awaited Corfu and the beautifully situated Mandraki Marina.
We left behind a country that had exceeded all expectations. Albania had offered historic cities, spectacular nature, generous hospitality and adventures that oscillated between the grand and the slightly absurd.
Exactly the kind of journey that continues to live on, even when the next coast has already emerged on the horizon.
Follow Anki here:
Anki Palerby Hjelmqwist
You might also like:
Sailing to Albania – turtles, mountain winds and an unexpected love affair
Sailing to our winter harbour in Sicily
Sailing around Sicily – the west coast and the way back
Coffee and wine in Tirana – tips for your visit to the capital of Albania
Ruffhäxan's best food tips – a book filled with sea, people and food joy
English (UK) 
Svenska
Mikael Beckfjäll says:
I like discovering different food cultures when traveling abroad, which is actually why I travel sometimes. My wife doesn't care much about it but loves all the beautiful views we get to admire.
Thanks for the tip here, my wife's boyfriend has been there and really liked it.
Take care now.
July 16, 2026 - 14:26