Writer and photographer: Heléne Katzman
Morocco, a flamboyant country in terms of food, culture and history. But who would have thought that beauty could be found in its darkness? The plan was to go on an adventure in the Sahara Desert. Instead, I found a peaceful oasis under sparkling stars where silence reigns in the night.
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The journey begins in Marrakesh
I land in Marrakesh and immediately feel myself coming to life. Just stepping off the plane and into the afternoon sun was a minor miracle. Dark and cold Sweden will remain behind me until next year, 2026. The local bus from the airport to the medina costs only four Moroccan dirhams, equivalent to four Swedish kronor. I have been to Morocco before, but never to the Sahara Desert, the main destination of this trip.
One night in a cheap hostel dormitory will suffice. I check out and walk through narrow alleys, motorcycles, donkeys tied in front of carts, tourists and vendors competing for space in what is, to me, a confusing labyrinth. The air is filled with exciting scents. You can buy everything from beautifully stacked pomegranates and second-hand shoes to Tajín, Morocco's signature dish, which is cooked in clay pots over an open fire.
Bus trip across the Atlas Mountains
At 3:30 p.m., the bus departs from the bustling streets of Marrakesh to the quieter and more southerly latitudes of Zagora, towards the border with Algeria. The seven-hour bus journey takes me up and through the Atlas Mountains. A fantastic surprise full of mighty panoramic views with high mountains. Some with snow-capped peaks.
The valleys are deep and the houses look as if they have been carved directly out of the red rock faces as we wind our way up and down the serpentine roads. Since I am not the type of traveller who researches things in advance, I can only be carried away by what I see. But that is nothing compared to what is to come.
Majorelle Desert Camp in Zagora
When I get off the bus half an hour early in Zagora, Houssine is already there. He runs the Majorelle Desert Camp. He speaks good English, which is not always guaranteed here in Morocco. But communicating is no problem, and the taxi ride feels shorter than the supposed hour the more we talk and laugh.
We pass Tamegroute, an ancient village well known for its handmade traditional green enamel pottery. The last part of the road is not a road at all, just tyre tracks in the sand between the dunes. It is impressive that the driver, who turns out to be Houssine's brother-in-law, manages to find his way.
"Majorelle Desert Camp is our family business, which I run together with my brothers. But we can only operate it because we don't own the land. It is owned by local tribes and protected by cultural preservation laws. We can't buy it, even though we would like to," explains Houssine.
When they took over the business from their uncle five years ago, it didn't take long before the pandemic knocked on the door. The timing could hardly have been worse. For months, the brothers sat alone in the desert with big plans but no bookings or income. Quite ironic, really, since camping in the desert would definitely mean keeping the recommended distance.
"We had no idea what was going to happen. How long would the pandemic last, and would we even have a business afterwards? It was tough. But I can't imagine a better place to be than here, in the peace and quiet," says Houssine as we sit in the dining room.
The sand dunes surrounding us, the dining room, the tents, the decorated gazebo, the kitchen and the small toilet block make the camp look like a miniature village. It's my first time in the Sahara Desert, but Houssine's relaxed attitude and hospitality make me feel right at home.
He helps me with my bags and shows me to my new home for the next few days. Not only do I have my own tent big enough to accommodate three people, but when I see that it also has a shower and toilet with a hand shower, I almost drop my jaw. I'm used to my little one-man tent. But this is something else entirely!
"The bathrooms are new since last year. When we took over from our uncle, there was only one house for everything and two tents for guests. That was all. But when business really took off after the pandemic, we expanded and modernised," says Houssine.
I can hardly believe I found this gem at such short notice, and find it hard to understand that you get a whole tent plus a luxury breakfast for just under a hundred quid a night. Coming here was definitely the right choice.
Service beyond the ordinary
Meeting needs with comfort and good service is one thing. Something they do fantastically well here. But I can't help raising my eyebrows when Houssine tells me that the bathrooms were added at the guests' request. If you're camping in the desert, is it realistic to expect your own flush toilet?
Personally, I think it's ridiculous. If you're that crazy, there are more suitable places to live than the Sahara Desert. But if I've learned anything about Moroccan culture, it's that they are as welcoming as they are hospitable, and Houssine is no exception.
Another thing I quickly learn is that nights in the desert are cold. Out come the socks, hoodies and double layers of trousers. Clothes that I only have because I left cold Sweden in November. Temperatures of 10-12 degrees may not sound too bad, but when you're camping and lying still, it's freezing cold. Despite being fully dressed and having three wool blankets, I realised afterwards that I should also have crawled into the sleeping bag at the bottom of my rucksack. But that will be for next time.
Relaxing days in the desert
Now it's just me and the staff. Houssine is in the desert, hiking with a group of French people for a week. The complete opposite of why I came here. I enjoy the peace and quiet. My computer remains packed away, even though I came here with the intention of writing. But it doesn't belong here. Instead, I write by hand – with paper and pen. Just that feels like travelling back in time.
I spend my days in the gazebo, cuddling with my dog Ayour (“moon” in Berber) who, surprisingly, plays with desert mice in the evenings, or in a chair at the back of the kitchen – the perfect place to watch the sun set and be replaced by the moon in a pink sky.
Company at the camp adds variety
But one day, I am no longer alone. A couple from France, an Italian woman and three guys on motorcycles break the silence. It's nice to have new dinner company, even if only for one evening. I help the staff, Badr and Mustafa, to serve. I don't speak Arabic or French, and they don't speak English. But with smiles and sign language, the soup, plates, tajine, bread and water end up in the right place.
In the evening, everyone gathers around the campfire to listen to Badr and Mustafa's drums and singing. The sky is covered with stars and the atmosphere is so clear that you can see the galactic dust between them. Some stars fall. One “falls” diagonally upwards, followed by a long glittering tail. I have never seen anything like it.
Two days later, it's my turn to leave this desert oasis. As a seasoned backpacker, I'm always on the move towards new adventures. Sitting still isn't really my cup of tea. But I've never been to a place like this. Where peace and quiet totally infuse your body and mind. No must-dos. No time, just peace of mind.
This time, I don't pack my rucksacks with a smile. I hop on the motorbike behind Mustafa, who drops me off at the roadside where the taxi Houssine has ordered is waiting. It may have been my first time in the Sahara. But it certainly won't be my last. I know exactly where I'm going when I come back.
Houssine's best desert tips
- Always have a water bottle and sunscreen handy.
- Dress warmly at night. Do not underestimate the cold.
- If you see something you want to pick up, kick it with your foot first. Scorpions or other animals may be hiding underneath.
- Be honest about your health if you are planning a physically demanding activity. The guide is responsible for everyone's well-being, and not being transparent about any health issues risks the safety of the group. This is especially true in the desert, where resources can be difficult to access.
This is Houssine
- Name: El Housinne Essouti
- Bor: Zagora, Morocco
- Do: Runs Majorelle Desert Camp and guides desert treks in the Sahara Desert
- Contact us: facebook.com/desertcampsahara
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