Sailing in Germany – along the Baltic Sea coast from Usedom to Greifswald

Writer: Helena Bergström

What's it like sailing along Germany's Baltic Sea coast? We had the chance to discover the area around Usedom, Peenestrom and Greifswald from a sailboat – a journey with small natural harbors, bridge openings, fishing villages and historic towns. And weather that varied from bright sunshine to strong winds and pouring rain.

Sailing along Germany's Baltic Sea coast offers great variety

The German Baltic coast may not be the first thing that comes to mind when thinking about sailing in Europe, but it is an exciting area with islands, lagoons, rivers and sheltered waters, while also providing quick access to more open parts of the Baltic Sea.

We got to experience the area during a sailing trip with South Coast Baltic Boating Rally, when we sailed on the large sailing yacht The Wind. During the German part of the trip, we moved between Krummin on the island of Usedom, Wolgast, Greifswald and Kröslin, among other places.

It was a trip where the sailing itself was a big part of the experience – but where we also had time to dock and discover a lot on land.

Krummin is a small natural harbor on Usedom

One of the ports we visited was Natural harbour Krummin, which is located on the western side of the island of Usedom, inside the sheltered Krumminer Wiek. When we sailed here, the water level was unusually low. The area is shallow from the start and now we managed to hit the bottom several times before we arrived. Fortunately, the bottom consisted mostly of soft mud.

The harbor was still one of the places we liked best during the German part of the trip. It is green and peaceful, far from Usedom's busier seaside resorts, and has a small-scale and personal feel.

Since our visit, the harbor has developed further. Naturhafen Krummin has around 150 berths and is now four-star certified according to Blue Star Marina. It offers modern service areas, electricity and water at the piers, laundry facilities, wifi and bike rental.

From Krummin you can discover the surroundings by bike.

We stayed more than one night in Krummin and used one of the days to discover the area from the saddle of our bikes. It turned out to be a great way to combine the sailing trip with experiences on land. We first cycled to a ferry, took our bikes across the water and continued to the small fishing village of Freest.

Freest is a small fishing village on the Peenestrom

Freest is located on the mainland, opposite northern Usedom, and has a long tradition as a fishing village. Fishing boats are still moored in the harbor and there is also a small sandy beach.

One of the things we remember best are the special Freester Fisherman's Rugs, hand-knotted rugs with motifs taken from the sea. The tradition grew when fishermen needed to find other ways to make a living during periods when fishing was not profitable. If you look closely at the geometric patterns of the rugs, you can find anchors, fish, waves and other maritime symbols.

We also visited a small shipyard where old wooden boats were repaired – and of course ate Fischbrötchen. A simple fish roll is almost mandatory when traveling along the German Baltic coast.

Wolgast is the gateway between the mainland and Usedom

From Freest we continued on our bike towards Wolgast, a small town right by the Peenestrom. Wolgast also has a history that is a little extra interesting for us Swedes. After the Thirty Years' War, the town came under Swedish rule and belonged to Swedish Pomerania until the beginning of the 19th century.

In the center you will find the town hall and the large Petri Church, which feels surprisingly grand for such a small town. Wolgast also serves as an important connection to Usedom. Here both road and rail cross the Peenestrom.

READ MORE: Things to do on Usedom – 25 tips for a Baltic Sea paradise

The Peenebrücke in Wolgast opens to boats several times a day

When we later left Krummin by sailboat, we got to see Wolgast again – this time from the water. To get on, we had to cross the Peenebrücke, the big blue swing bridge between Wolgast and Usedom.

When we made the trip, different opening times applied than today, and it is important to check current times before sailing.

During the summer season 2026, there will be several regular bridge openings each day. Sport boats must also indicate their intention to pass by being at the designated waiting area before the opening.

There is also a major road project underway in Wolgast. A new approximately 1.4 kilometer long bridge over the Peenestrom is being built and will have a clear height of around 42 meters. When it is completed, passing ships will no longer be dependent on a bridge opening in the same way as today.

Tips: Always check current bridge openings and nautical information before traveling, as times and temporary restrictions are subject to change.

The sailing towards Greifswald began in bright sunshine

After passing through Wolgast, we continued towards Greifswald. At first, we had exactly the kind of sailing weather you would want – sun, moderate wind and plenty of time to sit on deck and enjoy.

When the conditions are like this, sailing is hard to beat. The scenery slowly glides by and life on board becomes almost ridiculously pleasant. We photographed, talked and stared in front of the camera. That was going to change.

The weather in the Baltic Sea can change quickly

When we got out into the open water, the wind picked up considerably. Suddenly it was less about taking pictures and more about stowing away loose items, putting on life jackets, and holding on. The boat was listing heavily, and it became a completely different kind of sailing than the calm journey a few hours earlier.

Gradually the wind died down – and instead it started to rain. So in one day we got to experience several sides of sailing along the German Baltic coast. First sunshine and a holiday feeling, then strong winds and then rain. It was also a good reminder of how quickly conditions on the Baltic can change.

Greifswald is reached via the beautiful Ryck River

As we approached Greifswald we left the open water and continued onto the Ryck River. This was one of the most beautiful entries of the trip. Along the water we passed greenery, houses, piers and lots of small boats. To get further into the city we also had to cross another openable bridge.

Greifswald is well worth a stop. The city is an old Hanseatic city with one of Germany's oldest universities and a long history that is also closely intertwined with Sweden's. Greifswald belonged to Swedish Pomerania for more than 160 years. We stopped to explore the city properly - but we have collected that in our own guide.

READ MORE: Greifswald in Germany - attractions and Swedish history

The sailing from Greifswald to Kröslin became significantly calmer

After the days in Greifswald it was time to get out on the water again. We left the city via Ryck and continued towards Kröslin. This time the Baltic Sea showed its kinder side. Instead of strong winds and rain it was a calm sail where we could sit on deck and enjoy the sun. After about five hours we arrived in Kröslin.

Kröslin has a large marina at Peenestrom

Kröslin is located on the mainland at Peenestrom, just north of Wolgast and opposite the island of Usedom. There is a large marina and holiday resort here with moorings and various forms of accommodation. When we arrived here, we were particularly drawn to the houses that are out on the water. Perhaps not surprisingly – floating houses always get a little extra attention from us.

For us, Kröslin was also the end point of a week-long sailing trip. Here it was time to leave the sailing yacht The Wind, which had become our temporary home.

After a week together with an international group of sailors, photographers, journalists and representatives of various destinations, it actually felt a little sad to get off. But above all, we had seen a part of Germany that we hadn't had a very good idea of before.

Sailing is a different way to discover northern Germany

We have travelled a lot in Germany over the years, especially by motorhome. Coming by sea gave a completely different perspective. Instead of motorways and parking lots, there were waterways, ports and bridge openings. And places like Krummin and Freest, which are quite small dots on the map, suddenly became important destinations.

Plus, it's easy to combine life on the boat with excursions on land. We could dock at a small harbor, pick up the bikes, and head out to the surrounding villages and towns. It was the combination of sailing, cycling, small harbors, historic towns, and nature that we enjoyed the most.

There are a few things to keep in mind when sailing in the area

Anyone planning to sail around Usedom, Peenestrom and Greifswald themselves needs to use up-to-date charts and check nautical information before the trip. Conditions can change and bridge openings and other restrictions may be temporary.

Some of the protected waters around Usedom are also relatively shallow. We experienced this ourselves in Krummin, even though the port's stated target depth in the entrance today is 2.70 meters. Some things that might be good to keep in mind:

• Check depth and fairways. Parts of the area are shallow and the draft of the sailboat plays a major role.
• Check bridge openings. In particular, the Peenebrücke in Wolgast requires planning as long as the current bridge is used.
• Follow the weather forecast. Protected waters and the more open Baltic Sea can offer completely different conditions.
• Please bring a bicycle. This makes it much easier to discover the surroundings from smaller ports.
• Don't plan too hard. A small harbor, a fish sandwich and a spontaneous bike ride can prove to be at least as memorable as the big sights.

Our sailing trip was part of the South Coast Baltic

Our trip was carried out in 2019 as part of the South Coast Baltic Boating Rally, an international project that worked to highlight sailing and ports along the southern Baltic coast. For us, the trip was an opportunity to experience parts of Poland and Germany from the sea.

Of course, a lot has changed since then, but our experiences along the German coast remain. And it is the stretches around Usedom, Peenestrom and Greifswald that we would love to return to.

More to see and do in Germany

Of course, there is much more to see and experience around Germany. Here are some tips for interesting places in the northern part of the country:

• Things to do in Stralsund
• Things to do in Wismar
• Schwerin Castle