Bed and Breakfast Molino di Lancin

Writer and photographer: Heléne Katzman

Life as a backpacker doesn't always go smoothly. Sometimes you need to stop in unexpected places while waiting to continue. It can be uncomfortable, sweaty and inconvenient. But that's usually when you find local gems and people who shine a little brighter.

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Slow postal service brought much more

The four half-fat Labradors run towards me when I come walking on the gravel driveway towards the big stone house. Three are black and one is brown. They greet, jump and drool. They are happy. The tall man with white hair walking towards me is Daniele, the owner who lives here with his wife Maura. They have been married for over 30 years and the farm has been in Daniele's family since the 19th century. He is the fourth generation.

In pure optimism, I have made my way here without a reservation. With all my luggage, divided into two backpacks, one on my back and one on my stomach, I walk up and down the curvy slopes in the lush green valley. Of course during the hottest hours of the day.

Once in the first village, it turns out that I went the wrong way. But luckily the locals in Pareto here in Italy are kind and helpful. Andrea, son of the elderly lady sitting on the stairs by the church tower, offers to drive me. When we drop off his son, the car rolls on through the green curves.

According to Google Maps, Bed and Breakfast Molino di Lancin is the cheapest and closest place to stay while waiting for my bank card sent from Sweden. With a bit of luck it will arrive at the post office tomorrow. Mail delivery in the Italian countryside is not much to hang on the tree. But the Bed and Breakfast Molino di Lancin is. Beautifully framed by greenery, tropical flowers in pink, yellow and purple, it is a leafy oasis.

At the back of the house, the sparkling waters of the Diga del Valla pond meander past rocks and stones. It's not just guests who can take a dip here. Everyone is welcome.

What strikes me about Daniele is his natural calm and hospitality. The retired teacher can talk about anything from the history of the house to how modern technology is changing society's values.

We remain seated at the large wooden table in the hall long after I have finished my gigantic breakfast buffet of tea, fruit, homemade blackcurrant jam, juice, focaccia, yoghurt and cakes that Maura laid out before she left for work. Another thing I can't help but be impressed with is how down to earth they are. Daniele doesn't run his business for money. You can tell he does it from the heart.

- I love sharing and learning all the stories from people all over the world when they come here. I learn about their lives and the world through them. When you hear “history”, you often think of World War II or other big events we learn about in school. I am interested in the unwritten stories. The ones we create together in the present are the absolute best.

Thanks to his cultural curiosity, Daniele has picked up a few words of English and even taken a course in German. But a mix of Spanish and Italian is proving more beneficial. We avoid mobile phones as much as we can. But sometimes Google Translate comes to the rescue.

Building your dream

The house has been in the family since 1878. But it wasn't until 2005 that Daniele decided to turn the old flour mill, which was in use until 40 years ago, into a bed and breakfast. The process has been extensive, but with Maura by their side, they have built their dream.

I am amazed by all the antiques that adorn the walls of the house. The bookshelves run metres long in height and width. An old-fashioned switch sits on the wall, and the typewriter outside my room upstairs is reminiscent of times gone by before computers and mobile phones.

From the top of the spiral staircase outside the two bedrooms with a total of six beds, the view is impressive to say the least. The giant crystal chandelier attached to the massive dark beams hangs several metres above the dining room table, and from the floor to the top of the giant stone fireplace is surely at least six metres. It is an impressive sight. The dedication and love Daniele and Maura put into their home and their guests is undeniable.

Being welcomed as part of the family

Living here, even if only for a few days, is like being part of the family. Already on the first day they invite me to eat pizza in the village.

The small restaurant in picturesque Spigno, turns out to be a former stable for cows. Which only adds to its charm. The atmosphere is familiar and relaxed. I'm even invited into the kitchen to watch as the chef happily demonstrates how he spins the pizza dough in the air while his colleague eagerly asks me to take photos.

For those who want to escape the stress of the city and surround themselves with the greenery of the picturesque Italian countryside, Bed and Breakfast Molino di Lancin is perfect. No one is in a hurry here. People are happy, curious and seemingly content with life. Everyone talks to everyone. Something I experienced when I accompanied Daniele on errands in the village.

The small butcher's shop, which also sold wine and homemade ice cream, felt more like a local café. The only difference was that no one was sitting down, and with each person who came through the door, the sense of community increased.

The buzzing of insects and the croaking of frogs

Every time I enter my big room upstairs, I smile. I fall asleep to the buzzing of insects and the croaking of frogs. I wake up rested in silence. At the bottom of the spiral staircase, breakfast is waiting for me once again, and Daniele is quick to ensure that everything is to my satisfaction.

I lie down in the hammock and watch Daniele throwing sticks into the pond for the dogs. They happily plop in and swim after. Wet noses and mosquito bites wake me from my nap. A shoe disappears out of sight into the mouth of a happy pooch.

You don't have to do much here. Just be - and maybe chase the odd shoe. But if you're more energetic than me, you can go hiking or cycling in the countryside instead. Or why not go fishing? Bed and Breakfast Molino Lancin is perfect for animal and nature lovers. You can even bring your own dog to this lush oasis.

Time to move on

The next day it's time to move on. I have misjudged the distance to the train station and get a little stressed. Maura reassures me as we sit at the breakfast table.

- Of course, you shouldn't walk all the way there with all your luggage. It's several kilometres. Daniele will drive you, she assures me in a friendly voice.

I feel a bit silly for not asking for a lift beforehand. It wasn't something I wanted to expect or take for granted. But for Daniele and Maura, it's no big deal. Of course they make sure I get to the train. The stress is gone. For their calmness, their way of including and making me feel cared for, I am grateful to them both.

As the train rolls away from Spigno's small railway station towards Alexandria, my thoughts go in the opposite direction: back to Molino Di Lancin and the luck I had to meet Daniele and Maura.

Meet the Scaglia couple

Name: Daniele and Maura Scaglia
Bor: Village of Spigno in Monferrato, Italy
Employment: Daniele is retired from the teaching profession. Together with his wife Maura they run and own the Bed and Breakfast Molino di Lancin. Mura also works full time as an administrator.
A different kind of hobby: Daniele enjoys creating art from odd natural objects he finds everywhere.

Visit Molino Di Lancin

High season: June to August
Temperature: Up to 35 degrees
Tips: Bring mosquito repellent if you don't want to get eaten. Your own hammock is great if you want to dangle between the trees to the ripple of the water.
Activities in the neighbourhood: Trekking, mountain biking and fishing.
For those travelling with dogs: Your four-legged friend is also very welcome.

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Heléne Katzman

Heléne is a globetrotter, backpacker, freelance journalist and writer. Since graduating from the Hotel and Restaurant School, she has moved abroad to Ireland and the Czech Republic, among other places, with backpacking and volunteer trips with everything from cougars in the Amazon jungle to dog stables in India and horse farms in Italy. The challenge is to keep up with all the exciting things the world has to offer. Whether she's shaking piña coladas in a bar in Brazil, camping with too-small tents on Cambodian islands, or dancing at sunrise at a Portuguese festival, she's always finding hidden gems and the personal stories of the locals.

Bed and Breakfast Molino di Lancin - a hidden gem in Italian greenery

Writer and photographer: Heléne Katzman

Slow postal service brought much more