Kiev in Ukraine - travel guide to Kiev's gems

We have visited the capital city of Kiev in Ukraine twice, and this city is actually one of our favourite cities in Europe. Ukraine has 46 million inhabitants and is the third largest country in Europe by area. Although it's been a few years since we were last in Kiev, we think we have some interesting tips to share. Kiev is the city for those who like history, beautiful buildings, shopping and unusual restaurants.

Update in 2022: Due to the invasion of Ukraine in February 2022, it is of course inappropriate to visit the country at the moment. Read the guide anyway to be reminded of what a beautiful and interesting country it is!

History in Independens Square

Whether you call it Independence Square, Independence Square or the Maidan, this square is a place not to be missed during your visit to Kiev. Home to several hotels and department stores, the square has also been the site of several political demonstrations.

In 2004, people gathered here, in an orange-coloured square, to protest against the widespread fraud in the presidential elections of the Ukrainian government. During the economic crisis of 2008-2009, demonstrators instead set up white tents in the square and protested against the very ruling parties that came to power during the Orange Revolution of 2004.

In the autumn/winter of 2013-2014, the square again became a rallying point as opposition supporters protested the Russian-orientation of the political leadership. The months-long demonstrations, known in the media as Euromaidan, eventually led to the removal of both President Viktor Yanukovych and the government of Prime Minister Mykola Azarov. Both sides thought they were right, as is usual in a conflict.

Golden Orthodox churches

Kiev is filled with beautiful Orthodox churches with golden domes. The Orthodox churches are the second largest Christian denomination in the world, with up to 300 million followers, according to Wikipedia. You can simply stroll around the Ukrainian capital and check out the various beautiful churches. The most famous is the impressive St Sophia Cathedral, dating back to the 11th century.

Lavra cave monastery

Located overlooking the Dnieper River, the Kievo-Pechersky Lavra cave monastery is one of Kiev's main attractions, with a history dating back to the 11th century. In this monastery, monks lived an ascetic life in deep cave systems, where they are now buried in glass tombs. The monastery attracts 200 000 pilgrims each year who come to pray, as well as many Ukrainian and foreign tourists.

Since its foundation, the cave monastery of Lavra has been a prominent centre of Eastern Orthodox Christianity in Eastern Europe and, together with the Cathedral of St. Sophia, is a World Heritage Site. Stepping down into the caves was almost a bit eerie! We really had to bend down to get around, and these monks were only 1.50 metres tall in the small underground passages. The average lifespan can't have been long as they never saw the sun.

Shopping underground

We really like that shopping in Ukraine. Kiev is full of shops and the range of clothes is huge, perhaps especially for women. In the modern malls you will find many of the usual chains, including some that are not available in Sweden. There are also a number of exclusive shopping malls and streets, where you can buy designer clothes from the likes of Gucci, Versace and Armani.

What we enjoyed most was shopping in the underground Metrograd shopping centre. Here, on the same level as the metro stations, there is an almost endless underground system of corridors with exciting little shops. Often there are many small shops with perhaps ten copies of each garment.

The range is huge, with lots of fur, patent leather, glitter and high heels. The clothes are often warmly lined, even the patent leather boots. The prices? They range from really, really cheap (especially in the underground mall) to really, really expensive (the most exclusive shops).

What about men? Yes, they can find some shopping too. Peter bought coats and cufflinks while we were here. And various other things!

Surprising restaurants

Our experience was that there are many interesting, fun and different restaurants in Kiev. We visited among others restaurant Pervak, where the staff walk around like old-fashioned Ukrainian peasants and where there are rooms decorated like a stable or a grandmother's library. Here we were served bread with various mixtures for starters, and then we ordered main courses with meat or chicken.

Another interesting restaurant is Tsarskoe Selo, located in a charming house a short taxi ride outside the centre of Kiev. Here you can experience performances by Ukrainian musicians in traditional clothing and lively sipping from neighbouring tables. We don't really remember what we ate here, it's the experience that is the lasting memory!

Today there are certainly many more interesting restaurants in Kiev. We have heard, for example, that there is a wide range of good quality Asian food.

Good Ukrainian fast food

We really fell in love with it Ukrainian fast food chain Puzata Hata and I still miss the lunches there. You take a tray and pick what you want from a long buffet menu with soups, salads, pies and various hot and cold meat and fish dishes. If you want, you can add a beer and then pay for exactly what you've picked, which is usually not expensive at all. Just enjoy your lunch!

Nightclubs in full swing

Kiev residents like to party! We visited a nightclub called Avalon when we visited the city. This was a particularly spectacular place with rooms decorated in gold, peacock chairs and little bridges over swimming fish. When you google it, it looks like the place may have been modernised and changed. since we were therebut feel free to check it out!

We also visited a nightclub called Arena City. Here too we are a little unsure if the club is still there, but regardless, we feel confident that the party atmosphere is still there in the capital of Ukraine. At Arena City you could order your own table with champagne, and then move between the different floors while a guard kept an eye on the table ...

Celebrate Christmas and New Year in Kiev

We have celebrated both Christmas and New Year in Kiev and find that the city offers the perfect atmosphere, especially if it is a lot of snow. When we were here over Christmas and New Year, there was a large Christmas tree in the centre of Independence Square. The square and surrounding streets were also decorated with lights and there were plenty of dressed up "Christmas characters". However, Orthodox Christmas is only celebrated on 7 January, so don't expect any specific Christmas celebrations on 24-25 December.

New Year is a very big holiday in Ukraine and is celebrated with much fanfare. When we were here, the New Year celebrations started with a free outdoor concert in Independence Square. We then continued the celebrations at Arena City, where there was a great atmosphere all night.

Living in Kiev

There are plenty of hotels to choose from in Kiev, many of which are centrally located. We do not know what has changed in recent years, but when we were here the standard was generally slightly lower than in hotels in Sweden, for example. So it is good to be prepared for the fact that the number of stars does not quite correspond to what you are used to.

We have stayed in two different hotels in Kiev, both of which are located in the centre of Independence square. The first time we stayed at hotel Kozatskiyas you can see in the centre of the picture below. This hotel was very ordinary, but the location is excellent.

The second hotel we stayed at is Hotel Ukraine, located on the same square. This hotel is larger and more grandiose and perhaps the standard here is slightly higher. Our room was nice, but a bit cold. In the hotel there was also a large restaurant, which served as a breakfast restaurant in the mornings. Above all, it is a bit cool to stay here because this is one of Kiev's most famous hotels from the communist era. Try to get a room with a view of Independence Square!

Travelling to Kiev

You can fly from Stockholm to Kiev, for example with Air Baltic or Ukraine International Air, and the journey takes about 2.5 hours. I don't think you need to travel in a propeller plane anymore, as we did when we flew a few years ago. We flew from Stockholm to Riga in a propeller plane with room for 50 passengers, a Fokker 50. In Riga we changed planes and continued to Kiev, still in a propeller plane.

The airport in Kiev is Kiev Boryspil International Airport, located about 29 kilometres southeast of the city centre. From here you can reach the city centre by bus or taxi.

See more: Crimean peninsula

We have been to Ukraine three times and one of them was in the Crimean peninsula, which Russia has now taken back. Russia and Ukraine were both once part of the Soviet Union, but when Ukraine gained independence in 1991, the Crimean peninsula became part of Ukraine. Russia agreed to a 50-year deal in 1992 to lease its own naval base in the Black Sea from Ukraine.

Now Russia is equipping, and their naval base will be Russian on the Black Sea. In addition, Russia wants eastern Ukraine to be able to go through its own country to its naval base, while eastern Ukraine is rich in resources and therefore attractive.

We went to the Crimean peninsula with Peter's son and nephew when they were 13 years old and were allowed to choose their own destination. We first ended up in Odessa, which was a real adventure. Among other things, there is a cool coastline towards the Black Sea and 25 kilometres of underground passages.

We later travelled to the Crimean peninsula with the Russian Ukrainian population. Here we encountered a whole new world of dressed-up and sometimes very rich people. You can read more about our adventures here:

Ukraine's suffering

The Ukrainians and the Ukrainian SSR (Ukrainian Soviet Socialist Republic 1922 - 1991) have long been a suffering people. If it wasn't Hitler at the height of the Second World War, it was Stalin.

The Soviet Union sent millions of people from Ukraine to labour camps, and when the Germans came, they were first sanctified and liberated Ukraine. Later they were sent to labour camps again, and it was the same as before. The Ukrainians' relationship with Russia is not painless.

As you can see, the people of Ukraine have been hit by tough roller coasters, but maybe it's not their time yet? We liked Kiev a lot and can't wait to get back to all the friendly people and the cool city, which we want to visit at least once more!