Port-Cros – national park and wild nature on the French Riviera

Writer: Helena Bergström

Updated: September 2026 | Port-Cros is one of the Golden Islands off the French Mediterranean coast and a fantastic excursion for those who like wild nature, hiking and crystal clear water. We came here by boat from Le Lavandou and had our sights set on La Palud beach. It didn't really happen that way. But sometimes a day trip is still good.

Port-Cros – one of the Golden Islands

Port-Cros is one of the three larger islands in Hyeres Islands, also known as the Îles d'Or or Golden Islands. The other two are Porquerolles and Île du Levant. The islands are located off Hyères on the French Riviera but have very different characters. Port-Cros is above all an island of nature.

The island forms a central part of Port-Cros National Park, which was formed in 1963. Here you will find forested hills, small beaches, hiking trails and a protected marine area with rich marine life. This is not an island where you need a long list of attractions. You come here above all to be outside.

Boat to Port-Cros

We visited Port-Cros in the summer of 2018 and took the boat from Le Lavandou, where we stayed with a camper at Pramousquier. We liked the island as soon as we arrived. The boat docks in the small harbor and there are a number of restaurants and outdoor cafes right on the water.

Our first mission was very simple: Lunch. We settled down at L'Hostellerie Provençale and each ate a mozzarella sandwich before setting off to discover the island.

The harbor at Port-Cros

We almost got a Caribbean feel from Port-Cros. Not because the Mediterranean had suddenly moved to the Caribbean, but because of the combination of intense greenery, blue water and the relaxed atmosphere down by the harbor.

Here the boats were moored close together and the outdoor cafes served food and cold drinks. But of course we weren't just going to sit there. We were going to hike!

Hiking at Port-Cros

Port-Cros is best discovered on foot. Motor vehicles and bicycles are not allowed for regular visitors and outside the village the hiking trails take over.

We had decided to walk to Palud Beach, a beach on the north side of the island. The road there went through dense greenery and occasionally the landscape opened up to the Mediterranean Sea. It was incredibly beautiful. It was also incredibly hot.

On the way to Plage de la Palud

From the port, it takes about 45 minutes to walk to La Palud. That doesn't sound particularly dramatic. But add in the height of summer, strong sun and temperatures over 30 degrees, and 45 minutes can feel considerably longer.

I'm sensitive to extreme heat and had packed a hat, sunglasses, and plenty of water. However, after about 35 minutes of walking, I started to feel like I was getting a headache.

And then the classic dilemma arose. If we keep going, we might get there. But then we'll have to go back too. We turned around. Not particularly heroic perhaps, but probably quite wisely.

Plage de la Palud and the snorkeling trail

So we never got all the way down to Palud Beach, even though we could see the beach from a distance. And that's actually a bit of a shame. La Palud is not just a beach. There is a marked underwater trail where you can discover life below the surface with a mask, snorkel and flippers.

The trail takes about 40 minutes and is marked by six buoys with information about different environments and species. Here you will find seagrass meadows with posidonia and the opportunity to see various fish, sea urchins, starfish and other species that live in the protected marine area.

We didn't really know the extent of that when we were here. So La Palud is still on the list of things we would like to do if we return. Preferably on a much cooler day.

Beaches at Port-Cros

Port-Cros is not a classic seaside island with miles of sandy beaches. Instead, there are smaller beaches and coves that can be reached on foot. In addition to Palud Beach are among others South Beach, which is closer to the port.

But for us this time it was a much easier swim. After we turned around, we made our way back to the harbor and found a small pebble beach where we could cool off. It was exactly what I needed. Peter, however, soon had another problem. He cut his foot.

Not quite the day we had planned

So far, our nature trip had gone something like this: I was getting a migraine. We never made it to the beach. Peter cut his foot.

The foot was fine after washing and applying plasters, but it was perhaps not quite the adventurous paradise day we had envisioned in the morning. On the other hand, it is often precisely such travel days that one remembers. And Port-Cros was still incredibly beautiful.

Fort du Moulin

On the heights above the harbor lies Fort du Moulin, one of several fortifications at Port-Cros. We photographed the fort during our visit, although our attention at the time was perhaps more on headaches, baths and Peter's foot than on military history.

It is nevertheless a reminder that Port-Cros is not only made up of protected nature. The island also has a long strategic history and several forts and defensive structures have been preserved. For those who want to combine hiking with history, there is more to discover than beaches and forests.

Back to the harbor

After swimming, shade and lots of water, the headache actually started to subside. So we did the only sensible thing. We returned to the port.

Here we sat down at an outdoor café and stayed for about an hour. Music was playing, guests were singing along and the waiters were running back and forth with drinks, seafood and ice cream. And suddenly the day felt pretty good again.

Eventually we took the boat back to Le Lavandou, had an ice cream and continued by bus to the campsite and our camper.

Good to know about Port-Cros

Port-Cros is a national park and its nature is protected by special regulations. The island is discovered on foot and bicycles and motor vehicles are not allowed for regular visitors. Dogs are prohibited outside the village and camping or spending the night in the countryside is not allowed. There is also no drinking water along the trails, so bring enough from the village.

Smoking and fires are prohibited outside the village due to the fire risk. During the summer, hiking trails may also be closed when the fire risk is high. The National Park recommends checking the latest information before setting off.

And here we can actually add a tip based on our own experience: Don't underestimate the heat. If you primarily want to hike, we would prefer to choose a cooler period than the hottest weeks in the middle of summer.

The Three Golden Islands

Port-Cros is one of three main islands in the Gold Islands and they are very different.

• Porquerolles is the largest and has nice beaches, cycle paths and a more extensive range of activities for visitors.
• Levant Island is primarily known for the naturist area Héliopolis and is mostly a military area.
• Port-Cros is the island for those who are primarily looking for hiking, nature and a protected marine landscape.

We visited all three during our 2018 trip. And none of them were like the other.

Is Port-Cros worth a visit?

Absolutely. We never got to the beach we were planning to visit. We never snorkeled along the underwater trail. I got a headache and Peter cut his foot.

Yet we remember Port-Cros as one of those special places on the French Riviera. There is no Croisette, no huge hotels and no exclusive shopping streets.

Instead, there are forests, hiking trails, small beaches, crystal clear water and a small harbor where you can settle down after the day's adventure. Next time we'll make it all the way to La Palud. But then we'll choose a cooler day.

See more in the neighbourhood

If you want to get lost and experience more nearby, there is so much to discover! Here are our best tips:

• The Esterel Mountains and the Corniche d'Or
• Giens Peninsula
• Guide to the French Riviera
• Saint-Tropez