Hurghada, Egypt - our very first trip abroad together. Peter and I met in 2003, and in February 2005 we travelled to Hurghada. We had been working hard renovating apartments and found cheap tickets to an all-inclusive hotel on the beach. So, what did we think of Egypt then?
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To Hurghada in Egypt
Hurghada is an Egyptian tourist resort on the Red Sea, about 40 kilometres southeast of the capital Cairo. Our first trip abroad together was here because we were looking for a week's sun holiday and found cheap tickets. Booking a week with All Inclusive was very affordable, compared to many other destinations.
Popular tourist centre
Hurghada is a very popular tourist resort, which is of course partly due to the long, beautiful beaches and the almost constant sunshine. Another thing that attracts tourists to Hurghada is snorkelling and diving.
Life beneath the surface of the Red Sea is said to offer an amazing underwater world with crystal clear water and fish in every colour of the rainbow. We didn't dive or snorkel during our trip, but we did sunbathe on the beach!
Inside the walls
In Hurghada there are a number of larger All Inclusive hotels along the beach. We did not stay at the largest or most luxurious of these, but our hotel was quite excellent with a well-kept garden, a nice beach and both a buffet restaurant and a small fish restaurant. Nothing to complain about, but still we felt a little uncomfortable with the "inside and outside the wall" feeling.
Inside the wall, the flowerbeds were perfectly manicured, the atmosphere was holiday-like, you could have drinks and sunbathe in a bikini. As soon as you stepped outside the wall, it was like stepping into another world. It was dusty and noisy and you had to be experienced to know how to get past the energetic salesmen...
Outside the walls
Just outside the walls of our hotel was a long street full of small shops and stubborn vendors selling everything from souvenirs to perfume. One day we also went into the part of Hurghada that forms the central old town centre, El Dahar, or Downtown as it is also known.
Coming here was quite an experience! Here you'll find a bustling crowd and bustling markets, and the sounds of people and minarets mix with the smells of spices and food stalls. At the Hurghada Souk, which means market in Arabic, you can also browse clothes, jewellery, handicrafts and spices.
There are also two newer neighbourhoods in the city, Sekalla and the main New Hurghada neighbourhood, where you can find duty-free shops, restaurants and bars. In Sekalla you will also find the new marina and a longer harbour promenade. When we came back to "our street" outside the hotel after a day in town, we were tired and happened to be lured into a perfume shop ...
Help, I've ended up with a very annoying salesperson and I don't know how to get out of here.
The shopkeeper offered us tea and asked us to write in a guest book that he took out. He pointed to some lines in Swedish and asked us to read. "Help, I've ended up with a very annoying salesman and I don't know how to get out of here," it said. But we didn't say that... Instead, we felt that we were tired of salesmen and that we wanted to see more of Egypt. We made our way back to the hotel and booked a week full of excursions!
Desert safari by jeep
Booking excursions was the absolute best thing we could have done! We started with a jeep safari into the desert, or into the "desert", as our Danish-Egyptian guide said. The sand swirled in all directions as the jeeps accelerated out into the wilderness, and it felt a bit like being in an action film. Really cool actually!
After a relatively long trip into the desert, the jeeps slowed down, and now it became quieter. We got to ride a camel and meet Bedouins, and were offered food at a long table in the middle of the desert. Even though the visit to the Bedouin village seemed to be customised for tourists, we were satisfied with our experience in the desert.
Excursion to Karnak and Luxor
A few days later, we made an excursion to the temple city of Karnak, once part of the ancient capital of Thebes. During the same trip, we visited the Luxor Temple, took a boat trip on the Nile River, saw the stalls of Memnon in Kom el-Hetan, visited the Valley of the Kings where Tutankhamun's tomb was found and saw the temple of the female pharaoh Hatshepsut.
We made the trip by bus, and it took two days so we had to stay overnight in a hotel in Luxor. It is really incredibly fascinating to visit the remains of a civilisation that existed so many thousands of years ago. Although we were not super happy with everything during the trip to Hurghada, this excursion made us feel satisfied with the whole trip. This was an amazing historical experience and you can read more in our post from the trip.
Travelling to Hurghada
You can travel charter to Hurghada with many different companies, such as Ving, Apollo, TUI, Detur, Solresor and Airtours. You can fly both from Stockholm and from Gothenburg, and perhaps from additional locations. The flight time is just over five hours for direct flights, and will of course be longer if you book a trip with a stopover.
Climate and weather
Egypt has a desert climate, which means it is hot and dry during the day, but becomes cool in the evenings and nights. The sun shines most of the time and there are very few rainy days. In winter, during December to March, daytime temperatures are around 22-26 degrees centigrade.
At night the temperature can drop as low as 10 degrees, so if you plan to be out in the evening, don't forget to pack some warm clothes. In spring it can be around 28-30 degrees and in summer it is usually around 35 degrees. The water temperature is around 20 degrees in winter and 27-28 degrees in summer.
Prices and currency
Price levels are generally very low, but be aware that prices can start high and haggling is part of the process. Some imported products, such as imported beer and wine, can be relatively expensive. Taxis are cheap, but be aware that the price should be settled before travelling.
When it comes to shopping, you should also bear in mind that shops are closed on Friday mornings, the Muslim holiday, and that opening hours may also change during Ramadan.
The currency is Egyptian pounds, but you may want to bring euros as well, as euros can sometimes be used in the hotels. Credit cards are usually accepted in hotels and in larger restaurants and shops.
Things to consider when travelling to Egypt
Many people travelling to Egypt get annoyed by the pushy and energetic salespeople, just like we did. We've also met women who have travelled alone to Egypt, and found it particularly difficult to get around as a single woman. You just have to realise that there are cultural differences here.
We certainly don't want to discourage you from travelling to Egypt. Egypt has a lot to offer in terms of historical remains, exotic deserts, beautiful beaches and fascinating marine life under the sea. Our tip is just to be prepared for the fact that it won't be like home, and that you should be prepared to say no. many times to many vendors.
Have you been to Hurghada or elsewhere in Egypt, and what is your experience? Have you perhaps visited other tourist destinations such as Sahl Hasheesh, El Gouna or Sharm El Sheik?
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Steve says:
That first trip together will of course hold a special place in your hearts.
And since 2005 you have travelled and travelled and travelled.................
06 March 2018 - 7:53
Helena says:
Of course it is so Steve! In those days we were less experienced travellers but it's fun to think back 🙂 .
06 March 2018 - 12:37
Alexandra says:
I am half Egyptian and have been there many times. Have also lived there for six months after I graduated. Egypt is a special country to say the least and is very different from what we are used to haha.
The salespeople are a pain in the arse and the feeling of never being able to trust anyone is also quite hard but I've been there so many times so I've learnt to deal with it in the right way. Now, however, I have not been there since 2010 so it would probably feel different now. I also think a lot has changed there since the Arab Spring.
But Egypt has a lot of nice things like the Red Sea for example. I took my diving licence there and Sharm el Sheikh and the Sinai coast must be one of the most beautiful places to dive!?
06 March 2018 - 9:13
Helena says:
Yes, but that's right Alexandra! We thought the sellers were annoying, while I understand that they want to sell! It is important to have a little habit to handle it 😉 Culture clash from both sides. Perhaps they would succeed in selling better to Scandinavians if they gave a little time to look at their products in peace and quiet 😉 But certainly Egypt has a lot to offer! Fantastic historical sights and we have heard that it should be awesome diving! 🙂
06 March 2018 - 12:40
Ditte says:
Have been to Egypt three times, once in Hurghada in 2004 and then twice in Marsa Alam, 2005 and 2006. And mostly for the sake of diving / snorkelling. Really good! There were some excursions and among other things. as you in the desert. But very sad that you could not move freely without being constantly attacked by vendors. I thought I would be fairly familiar after working in Tunisia, but this was much worse. And they didn't take no for an answer either. Will not go back to Egypt because there are so many other places. But just the diving there was special. On the other hand, I have not renewed my diving licence so there will be no more diving for me.
But I imagine that since it was your first trip together, Hurghada has a special place in your hearts. Maybe you'll take a trip there again.
06 March 2018 - 15:27
Helena says:
We have heard that the diving is really good! For our part, it was primarily the excursions that made it a good and interesting trip.
06 March 2018 - 21:12
BP says:
I have not been to Egypt, but I remember my colleague travelling with her husband and three sons to an all-inclusive hotel in Hurghada. The family did not like the hotel because of the boring food and she also told me about these persistent salesmen who do not take no for an answer. We also encountered such salesmen in Agadir in Morocco and during our first trip to Alanya in Turkey. Incredibly annoying!
It will be exciting to read part 2.
06 March 2018 - 18:35
Helena says:
It feels like the sellers could benefit from being a little more restrained and letting customers look around. I think at least Scandinavians would appreciate it, and maybe actually shop more. But it's probably about culture clashes ... 😉 .
06 March 2018 - 21:15
Britt-Marie Lundgren says:
I would like to see all the cool buildings but as the situation is there now, it is not the time to go there. We also encountered annoying salesmen in Agadir during my first charter trip in 1975 and it spoils much of the pleasure of strolling around.
Naturally, the first trip together has a special flavour.
I have never visited an all-inclusive hotel, but I can imagine that it is great for families with children.
06 March 2018 - 20:00
Helena says:
As far as I know, the Ministry of Foreign Affairs only advises against certain specific areas in Egypt. Otherwise, it should be fine to travel. There are a few tough salesmen here and there. It is perhaps important to be prepared. At the same time, I think they should sell better if they let the customers look in peace and quiet ...?
06 March 2018 - 21:31