Umbria in Italy – experiences in the green heart of Italy

Writer: Helena Bergström

Updated: August 2026 | We have to admit that we fell a little in love with Umbria. Here, green hills, olive groves and sunflower fields spread out between historic towns and small villages, and the pace often feels calmer than in many of Italy's most visited tourist areas. We traveled through Umbria by camper, spent several days at Lago Trasimeno and enjoyed nature, boating, local food and rural accommodation. Here we share our experiences and tips from Italy's green heart.

What is Umbria?

Umbria is located in the middle of Italy, between Tuscany, Lazio and Marche, and the region's capital is Perugia. Unlike most other Italian regions, Umbria has no coastline, but the landscape is dominated by green hills, valleys, forests and farmland.

It is also home to Lake Trasimeno, one of Italy's largest lakes. The region is known for historic towns such as Assisi, Orvieto and Spoleto, but also for olive oil, wine, truffles and a rural landscape that has earned Umbria the nickname "the green heart of Italy".

Why is Umbria called the green heart of Italy?

Umbria is usually called ”The green heart of Italy”, and it's not hard to see why. The region is located in the middle of the Italian peninsula and is the only Italian region without a sea coast or land border with another country. Instead, you are greeted by a rolling inland with green hills, forests, valleys, olive groves and vineyards.

For us, it was the landscape and the tranquility that made the strongest impression. We vividly remember green hills, yellow sunflowers, olive trees and the sound of crickets in the heat.

Maybe that's what made us fall in love with Umbria so much. The region felt less touristy than many other parts of Italy we've traveled to, and we liked the relaxed, rural feel. "The Green Heart of Italy" actually feels like a pretty apt nickname.

Things to see and do in Umbria

Umbria offers historic cities, medieval villages, green landscapes and lakes. Here are some of the region's most interesting places to discover.

Perugia

Perugia is the capital of Umbria and is beautifully situated on a hill surrounded by green countryside. The historic city centre is filled with narrow alleys, old stone houses, squares and grand buildings. Among the sights are Piazza IV Novembre with the Fontana Maggiore fountain and Palazzo dei Priori. Perugia is also famous for chocolate and for its large jazz festival.

Assisi

Assisi is one of Umbria's most famous towns and is primarily associated with Francis of Assisi. The large Basilica di San Francesco is the town's main attraction and, together with other Franciscan sites, is on the UNESCO World Heritage List. The town itself is also worth visiting, with medieval stone houses, narrow streets and views of the Umbrian countryside.

Orvieto

Orvieto is dramatically situated on a high cliff of volcanic tuff. The city is most famous for its magnificent Gothic cathedral, the Duomo di Orvieto, but it also has a charming historic center and exciting underground environments. Another famous attraction is the deep well, the Pozzo di San Patrizio.

Spoleto

Spoleto is a historic city in eastern Umbria with roots far back in time. Here you can see the beautiful cathedral, stroll through the old town center and discover Roman remains. Above the city lies the mighty fortress of Rocca Albornoziana.

Lake Trasimeno

Lake Trasimeno is one of Italy's largest lakes and is surrounded by green hills, olive groves and small towns. Here you can enjoy swimming and boating, visit towns such as Passignano sul Trasimeno and Castiglione del Lago or take a boat out to one of the islands in the lake.

We spent several days at Lago Trasimeno ourselves, including a boat trip from San Feliciano to Isola Polvese. The lake became one of the places we fell in love with the most during our time in Umbria.

Lago Trasimeno – marine life in Umbria

Lago Trasimeno was the center of much of our time in Umbria. The lake is surrounded by green hills, olive groves and small towns, and out on the water you can see sailboats and other small boats. There are beaches and campsites here, and from several towns you can take the boat out to the islands in the lake.

We spent several days in the area, alternating relaxation with small excursions. One of the most enjoyable was the boat trip from San Feliciano to Isola Polvese.

San Feliciano and boat trip on the lake

San Feliciano is a small town on the eastern side of Lago Trasimeno and from here we took the boat out to Isola Polvese. Lago Trasimeno has three islands – Isola Maggiore, Isola Minore and Isola Polvese – and Polvese is the largest. The boat trip itself was short, but offered nice views of the lake and the surrounding landscape.

Isola Polvese

Isola Polvese is the largest island in Lake Trasimeno and today a green excursion destination with nature, walking paths and historical remains. Here you can find, among other things, the ruins of a medieval castle, the church of San Giuliano and the remains of an old monastery.

We walked around the island for a while, but it was really hot during our visit. In the end, we gave up on our sightseeing ambitions and headed down to the water for a much-needed swim.

Afterwards, it tasted extra good with an Italian beer and a sandwich with tomato and mozzarella before it was time to take the boat back.

Food, wine and olive oil in Umbria

Food was an important part of our experience of Umbria. The region is known for its rustic cuisine, where local ingredients play a big role, including olive oil, truffles, cured meats, cheeses and legumes. Wine is also produced here, including around Montefalco and Orvieto.

During our days in the area, we experienced the close connection between food and landscape several times. We lived among olive groves, ate vegetables grown on site, and sampled local olive oil, honey, and other products. One of our favorites was a plate of truffle pasta accompanied by a glass of red wine – simple, Italian, and very tasty.

Rural living in Umbria

Part of our experience of Umbria was about the accommodations. For a few days we swapped the campervan for a hotel and got to experience two quite different sides of the area around Lago Trasimeno.

The Seagull

For a few days we stayed at a family-owned The Seagull, near Lago Trasimeno. Here we alternated excursions with lazy hours by the pool and dinners at the hotel's restaurant and pizzeria.

The family had their own olive groves and produced their own olive oil, as well as vegetables used in the restaurant. One evening we had pizza at the pizzeria – and it was actually among the best pizzas we had in Italy. It was obvious that more people appreciated the place, because in the evening the restaurant was filled with both adults and children.

Il Cantico Della Natura

The ecological resort Il Cantico Della Natura is located high on a hill on the eastern side of Lake Trasimeno. It overlooks both the lake and the green valleys.

We spent many hours by the pool, walking in nature and ending the days with Italian food and wine. This resort in Umbria must really be the perfect place for those looking for relaxation and peace. It go as well as not feeling stressed in this environment.

If you hang around the hotel, you don't have to do much more than relax by the pool or maybe read a good book in a hammock. 

One evening we ate truffle pasta by the pool – one of those simple vacation memories that still sums up Umbria pretty well for us.

Umbria by motorhome

We travelled through Umbria by camper van and found the region to be a great place for a road trip. There are plenty of small roads through beautiful countryside, and the distances between many of the sights are relatively short. Keep in mind that historic towns often have narrow streets and ZTL zones, so it may be easiest to park outside the city centre.

At Lago Trasimeno we stayed at, among other places: Eden Park, a relatively simple campsite near the water with shaded pitches under the pine trees. For us, the relaxed campsite fit in well with the feeling we got from Umbria in general – green, close to nature and uncomplicated.

When is the best time to travel to Umbria?

Umbria can be visited all year round, but Spring and early autumn are particularly nice periods. During April–June the landscape is green and blooming and the temperatures are usually good for sightseeing, hiking and excursions. September and October often offer pleasant weather and are also a wonderful time for those interested in food, wine and local harvests.

Under July and August It can get really hot, which we experienced ourselves. Summer is great for those who want to combine excursions with swimming and relaxation at, for example, Lago Trasimeno, but in the middle of the day the heat can make sightseeing tiring.

If you want to discover Umbria's cities, villages and landscapes, we would therefore choose May, June, September or early October

More to see in the neighbourhood

Here you will find more reports about places and experiences nearby.

• Things to do in Rome
• Tuscany – a journey around cultural heritage
• Small-scale and genuine in the Marche region